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MACHINERY  PATTERN  MAKING 


CONTAINING 


FULL  SIZE  PROFILES  OF  GEAR  TEETH 


AND 


FINE  ENGRAVINGS  ON  FULL-PAGE  PLATES,  ILLUSTRATING  MANNER  OF 

CONSTRUCTING  NUMEROUS  AND  IMPORTANT 

PATTERNS  AND  CORE  BOXES 


BY 
P.   S.   DINGEY 

PRACTICAL  PATTERN   MAKER  AND   MECHANICAL  DRAFTSMAN 


376  fine  Illustrations 


NEW  YORK 

JOHN   WILEY   &   SONS 
53  E.  TENTH  STREET 


COPYRIGHT,  1891 
BY  P.  S.  DINGEY 


A 


171,  173  Macdougal  Street,  New  York 


NOTE. 


MOST  of  the  matter  in  this  book  was  written  expressly 
for  the  American  Machinist,  to  whose  courtesy  we  are 
indebted  for  some  of  the  illustrations.  Mr.  Dingey 
has,  however,  revised  many  of  his  drawings  and  much 
of  the  matter,  adding  some  valuable  items. 

WILEY  &   SONS. 


464543 


PREFACE. 


IT  is  assumed  that  those  who  will  read  this  book  do  not 
need  the  rudiments  of  pattern  making  presented,  therefore 
the  elementary  part  of  the  business,  which  to  most  pattern 
makers  is  so  distasteful,  has  been  omitted.  The  author  has 
not  laid  down  any  cast  iron  rules  as  to  the  methods  set  forth 
of  doing  work,  and  desires  that  the  contents  be  accepted  as 
suggestions ;  at  the  same  time  it  must  be  understood  that  he 
has  not  shown  a  number  of  ways  and  means  for  experimental 
purposes,  but  that  which  is  given  is  practicable,  and  the  result 
of  practice,  and  of  over  twenty  years  experience  in  the 
business. 

The  object  of  this  book  has  not  been  to  teach  pattern 
making,  for  that  can  never  be  done  through  a  book,  but  to 
discuss  methods. 

There  are  some  who  regard  with  a  great  deal  of  jealousy 
anything  that  comes  to  them  about  the  practical  part  of  their 
trade  through  a  book.  Then  there  are  others  that  scarcely 
ever  open  a  book  to  read  or  study,  that  condemn  all  books, 
treating  them  with  contempt,  and  passing  sentence  on  the 
writers  who  dare  write  on  anything,  the  fringe  of  which  their 
small  minds  might  have  grasped.  For  the  latter  this  book  is 


PREFACE, 

not  intended.  With  the  former  there  is  some  reason  for  the 
feeling  that  exists  in  their  minds,  and  it  may  be  found  in  the 
fact,  that,  from  time  to  time,  there  have  been  good  writers, 
men  of  intelligence,  those  whom  we  should  always  honor  and 
respect,  who  have  written  on  the  practical,  when  only  pos- 
sessing the  theoretical  knowledge  of  their  subject. 

In  the  present  volume  everything  of  a  visionary  kind  has 
been  avoided,  and  the  author  has  presented  such  subjects  as 
he  believes  will  be  interesting  to  pattern  makers  and  those 
of  the  machinery  business  generally. 

P.  S.  DINGEY. 
CHICAGO,  ILL. 


CONTENTS. 


THE  PATTERN  MAKER  AND  His  TRADE,  i 

THE  PATTERN  SHOP — Its  Position,  Size,  and  Requirements,  5 

MARKING  AND  RECORDING  PATTERNS,  9 

PRINTING-PRESS  CYLINDERS,  -  13 

DIFFERENTIAL  CHAIN  PULLEYS,  15 

A  HANDY  TOOL  FOR  LAYING  OUT  HEXAGON  NUTS,  18 

How  TO  CAST  JOURNAL  BOXES  ON  FRAMES,       -                        -  19 

HOW   TO   STRIKE   AN   ARC  BY   THE  AID   OF   THREE   POINTS,        -  2O 

KEY- HEADS  FOR  MOTION  RODS — The  way  to  lessen  the  cost  of 

their  production, 22 

ELBOW  AND  TEE  PIPES — A  quick  method  for  turning  the  patterns 

aud  core-boxes  in  the  Lathe,        ------  24 

SLIDE  VALVE  CYLINDERS,  -                                        -        -        -  26 

CORLISS    CYLINDERS — With  a  full   description,  showing  how  to 
construct  patterns  and  core-boxes  which  can  be  changed  at 

short  notice  for  different  stroke  Engines,       -  29 

FLY  WHEELS — Different  styles,    -                                                      -  36 
ENGINE   FRAMES — How  to  build  the  pattern  to  serve  for  various 

strokes,  4° 

SPUR  GEARS — How  the  teeth  should  be  made,  -  44 

BEVEL  GEARS — The  manner  of  laying  them  out,    -  48 

HOW  TO   LAY  OUT  THE  THREAD   OF   A  WORM   FOR  THE   PATTERN,  51 

WORM    WHEELS — The   way  to  get  the   angle  of  teeth   and  the 

manner  of  fastening  them  on, 53 


CONTENTS. 

SWEEPING  STRAIGHT  WINDING  DRUMS, 56 

MAKING  WINDING  DRUMS  FROM  PATTERNS — Method  of  cutting 

the  groove, '.-•"-  58 

MAKING  SHEAVES  FROM  CORE-BOXES,  -----  60 

MAKING  SHEAVES  FROM  PATTERNS,  -  -  -  -  65 
SHEAVES  WITH  WROUGHT  IRON  ARMS — An  original  way  of 

making  the  Hub,  ---------  68 

A  MACHINE  FOR  SWEEPING  CONICAL  DRUMS — Designed  by  the 

author,           ..........  JQ 

GEAR  TEETH — One  hundred  and  Twenty-eight  full  size  different 
profiles  of  Gear  Teeth  from  i//  to  3"  Pitch,  suitable  for  gears 

having  from  14  to  800  teeth, 74 

Table  showing  at  a  glance  the  required  diameters  of  Gear  Wheels 

for  a  given  number  of  teeth  and  pitch,          -  76,  77,  78,  79,  80,  81,  82 

Weight  of  Cast  Iron  Pipe,  -  83,  84 

"      "  Cast  Iron  Balls,  83 

"      "  Round  Cast  Iron, 85 

"       "  Square    "        " 85 

"      "  Flat        "        "  86 

"      "  Superficial  Foot  of  Cast  Iron  from  %"  to  2"  thick  86 

"      "  Round  Lead,                                                      -         -         -  .  87 

"      "  Square      "  87 

Binary  and  Decimal  Fractions, 87 

Table  which  gives  distances  to  open  a  2  ft.  rule  for  obtaining  angles 

from  i°  to  90°,                         88 

Metric  Measure  reduced  to  inches, 89 


THE   PATTERN   MAKER  AND   HIS   TRADE. 

A  THEORETICAL  knowledge  of  moulding,  with  an 
ability  to  read  drawings  well,  are  indispensable  to  a  good 
pattern  maker.  He  has  to  know  how  the  pattern  is  to 
be  moulded  before  he  can  do  much,  and  to  see  the 
machine,  or  parts  of  it,  mentally,  just  as  the  draftsman 
sees  it. 

In  many  trades,  that  which  is  most  necessary  is  to 
become  an  expert  in  handling  the  tools.  This  is  not 
so  in  pattern  making.  There  is  something  far  more 
important  than  merely  cutting  wood. 

In  many  patterns  it  is  not  so  much  a  question  of 
workmanship,  as  knowledge.  A  pattern,  after  it  is  made, 
may  be  duplicated  by  any  ordinary  wood  worker ;  fine 
workmanship  may  not  have  been  the  all-important,  and 
yet  none  but  a  first-class  pattern  maker  could  have 
planned  and  made  it. 

On  the  other  hand,  there  is  much  that  calls  for  fine 
workmanship  and  less  scheming.  This  is  no  doubt 
true,  more  or  less,  in  all  trades,  but  it  is  especially  so 
in  pattern  making,  and  this  is  why  I  say  that  pattern 
making  is  not  merely  cutting  wood.  From  the  very  na- 
ture of  the  trade,  a  pattern  maker  is  a  good  worker  in 
wood,  because  he  is  accustomed  to  work  to  finer  meas- 
urements than  the  ordinary  wood  worker. 

I  think  the  responsibility  that  rests  upon  the  pattern 


*«*  * 


department,  as  to  whether  work  turns  out  right,  is  equal 
to  that  of  the  drawing  room ;  for  while  the  draftsman  is 
responsible  for  the  design,  upon  the  pattern  maker  rests 
a  large  proportion  of  the  responsibility  of  executing  cor- 
rectly that  which  has  been  put  upon  paper. 

The  liability  to  mistakes  is  reduced  considerably  when 
the  machinist  takes  hold  where  the  pattern  maker  has 
left  off;  the  machinist's  part  is  no  doubt  the  most  impor- 
tant as  to  the  workmanship  and  right  working  of  the 
machinery ;  he  can  make  it  good,  bad,  or  indifferent ;  but 
mistakes  in  measurements  he  is  not  so  liable  to  as  the 
pattern  maker,  because  the  machinist  has  the  casting, 
and  is  given  the  drawing  of  it  with  instructions  to  finish 
to  drawing. 

When  a  pattern  maker  is  given  a  drawing,  he  has  to 
imagine  the  casting  before  him,  and  build  something 
that  will  produce  it ;  it  may  be  called  a  pattern,  but  often 
it  is  really  not  a  pattern  of  what  is  wanted,  because  of 
the  complexity  of  the  casting ;  it  is  sometimes  all  core- 
boxes  and  no  pattern,  and  here  is  where  the  responsibili- 
ty comes  in,  and  will,  I  think,  explain  why  the  pattern 
shop  is  often  the  birth-place  of  mistakes. 

Of  course,  mistakes  ought  not  to  occur ;  but  as  long 
as  pattern  makers  are  fallible,  they  will  occur  sometimes, 
though  the  utmost  precaution  be  taken.  I  am  always 
suspicious  of  the  man  that  never  makes  mistakes ;  he  is 
not  to  be  trusted ;  but  I  have  no  sympathy  for  those  care- 
less pattern  makers  who  are  constantly  making  blunders, 
and  who  think  when  their  patterns  come  within  an  eighth 
of  an  inch  it  is  near  enough. 

From  the  nature  of  the  trade  of  machinery  pattern 


PATTERN  MAKING,  3 

making,  there  is  more  danger  of  errors  being  made  in 
that  branch  of  machinery  building  than  others,  and  the 
careful,  industrious,  workman,  who  seldom  makes  an 
error,  is  worthy  of  consideration  when  he  does  happen  to 
be  caught,  for  such  a  man  usually  feels  bad  enough-  over 
his  mistakes,  without  having  anyone  make  him  feel 
worse. 

Owing  to  the  advance  made  in  mechanical  arts,  pat- 
tern making  is  becoming  one  of  the  most  important 
branches  in  machinery  building.  It  is  often  underrated 
by  a  class  of  machinists  who  think  that  because  a  pattern 
maker  is  not  called  upon  to  work  in  iron,  and  to  one- 
hundredth  or  one-thousandth  part  of  an  inch,  that  there 
is  not  much  in  pattern  making;  and  yet  the  pattern 
maker  is  as  much  of  a  machinist,  in  reality,  as  those 
generally  known  as  such. 

.  The  onward  march  of  improvements  in  machinery 
demands  that  the  pattern  maker  must  keep  right  up 
abreast  with  the  times,  although  he  is  considered  "a 
necessary  evil  "  among  manufacturers. 

There  is  a  great  deal  of  machinery  now  constructed, 
the  coring  of  which  is  so  complicated  that  it  taxes  the 
ingenuity  of  both  pattern  maker  and  moulder  to  know 
how  it  can  be  made  at  all — the  winding  passages  and 
secret  chambers  that  are  wanted  in  some  castings,  are 
worse  than  those  we  read  about  in  books.  The  old  fash- 
ioned idea  of  bolting  on  an  arm  here,  and  screwing  on  a 
bracket  there,  are  fast  dying  out.  The  modern  plan  is 
to  make  a  machine  with  as  few  pieces  as  possible,  thus 
making  the  pattern  more  difficult  to  build. 

There   are   many  patterns  that  require  little   or   no 


4  PATTERN  MAKING. 

knowledge  of  pattern  making  to  make,  but  I  would  not 
advise  anyone,  because  he  has  made  a  few  such  patterns, 
to  pose  as  a  pattern  maker ;  there  are  those  who  do.  I 
have  had  some  experience  with  them,  and  hope  always 
to  be  delivered  from  such.  They  are  a  worry  to  any 
foreman — he  is  in  constant  fear  that  with  all  his  watch- 
ing, the  would-be  pattern  maker  will  make  some  serious 
blunder  that  will  cost  the  firm  a  considerable  sum  of 
money — for  a  mistake  in  the  pattern  means  a  mistake  in 
the  casting,  and  as  an  old  employer  of  mine  used  to  say : 
"  Cast  iron  mistakes  are  rather  serious  things." 

The  fact  that  there  are  so  many  different  ways  of 
moulding,  gives  a  great  field  for  study  for  the  pattern 
maker,  as  to  the  best  way  of  making  a  pattern ;  but  when- 
ever a  complicated  piece  of  work  is  to  be  done,  the 
moulder  should  be  consulted,  and  I  do  not  think  that 
the  pattern  maker  will  lose  any  of  his  ideas  by  consulting 
with  his  brother,  the  moulder,  and  while  the  practical 
parts  of  the  two  trades  are  as  unlike  as  possible,  yet  there 
is  a  connection  between  the  moulder  and  the  pattern  mak- 
er that  is  inseparable.  If  discussion  is  necessary,  let  it  be 
carried  on  intelligently,  each  respecting  the  other's  opin- 
ions. Wherever  this  is  done,  good  is  sure  to  result,  and 
the  chances  are  that  the  best  way  of  doing  a  job  will  be 
arrived  at.  There  are  those  who  are  so  eager  to  advance 
their  own  ideas  and  have  them  carried  out,  that  they  are 
unwilling  to  consider  those  of  others ;  such  persons  are 
not  likely  to  be  very  profitable  to  any  concern,  for  they 
think  more  of  airing  their  own  genius  than  of  arriving  at 
any  results  that  might  be  of  practical  value. 


PATTERN  MAKING. 


THE   PATTERN  SHOP. 

ITS   POSITION,    SIZE,    AND   REQUIREMENTS. 

THE  question  has  often  occurred  to  me  why  pattern 
shops  are  located  on  the  upper  floor  of  a  building,  as 
they  usually  are.  The  foundation  for  fast  running  ma- 
chinery is  anything  but  good  on  an  upper  floor,  besides 
being  very  inconvenient  for  getting  patterns  up  and  down. 
It  also  is  risky  business  turning  a  large  pattern  in  a  lathe 
whose  only  foundation  is  an  upper  floor  that  springs 
with  every  motion  of  the  machinery ;  the  chances  that 
pattern  makers  will  take  when  turning  a  large  pattern 
under  these  conditions  are  great.  The  ground  floor  is  a 
much  better  location  for  a  pattern  shop. 

Large  face  lathes  for  turning  large  diameters  cannot 
be  too  rigid,  but  ofttimes  the  trembling  of  the  face  plate 
is  caused  by  too  small  an  arbor,  or  the  bearings  may  be 
too  close  together. 

Plenty  of  room  and  light  are  two  essentials  that  are 
generally  lost  sight  of  in  arranging  for  a  pattern  shop. 
This  shop  is  sometimes  called  the  pattern  room,  and  I 
suppose  it  is  thus  named,  from  having,  as  is  often  the 
case,  such  a  small  space  set  apart  for  that  purpose,  that 
it  has  scarcely  deserved  the  name  of  shop. 

The  nature  of  the  trade,  in  a  large  measure,  determines 
the  size  pattern  shop  a  firm  requires.  A  firm  of  large 
dimensions  making  specialties  does  not  need  such  a  large 


6  PATTERN  MAKING. 

pattern  shop,  as  a  smaller  one  that  builds  engines  and 
general  machinery.  It  is  more  to  this  latter  class  of 
manufactories,  employing  about  twelve  or  fourteen  pat- 
tern makers,  that  reference  is  made. 

Go  into  a  number  of  manufacturing  concerns,  and  in 
nine  out  of  ten,  it  will  be  found  that  the  pattern  makers 
are  working  so  closely  together  as  to  prevent  them  from 
getting  around  their  work  in  a  proper  manner ;  and  it  is 
surprising  how  a  job  may  be  impeded  for  lack  of  room 
to  build  it. 

When  it  happens  that  there  is  a  run  of  large  work, 
then  it  is  that  the  oft  repeated  expression  is  heard  "  We 
ought  to  have  a  larger  pattern  shop."  It  is  granted  that 
shops  are  situated  on  such  valuable  property  sometimes, 
that  a  limited  space  only  can  be  allotted  to  each  depart- 
ment ;  but  this  does  not  do  away  with  the  fact  mentioned. 
In  these  days  of  sharp  competition,  the  firms  that  are  not 
cramped  for  room  are  the  successful  competitors  in  the 
machinery  business. 

A  pattern  shop  about  75  ft.  x  50  would  be  a  convenient 
size  for  working  the  number  of  men  named. 

The  machines  should  not  be  located  all  over  the  shop, 
but  at  one  end  within  a  reasonable  working  distance  of 
each  other. 

Among  the  requirements  of  such  a  shop  would  be  a 
face  lathe  for  turning  large  patterns,  30"  lathe  with  bed 
about  1 8  ft.  long,  16"  lathe  for  small  work,  combination 
circular  saw  table,  plain  saw  table,  with  saw  about  12"  di- 
ameter, band  saw,  jig  saw,  surface  planer,  Daniel's  plan- 
er, two  or  three  Fox  Trimmers,  and  about  six  dozen 
(rather  more  than  less)  of  assorted  clamps,  I  mention 


VIEW 


VALLEY     CIT 


SJLCK  VIEW 


Gin.  STROKE:,     3  in.  RISE:     BED  6  x  15  inches:      Weight  25  Ibs; 
For  SMALL  PATTERN  WORK. 

FOX'S    TRIMMER, 


PATTERN  MAKING.  7 

this  smaller  item  of  clamps  in  order  to  insure  a  plentiful 
supply.  Much  time  is  frequently  lost  by  men  waiting 
on  each  other  for  clamps. 

The  Daniel's  Planer  is  a  machine  that  no  pattern  shop 
of  any  pretentions  should  be  without.  For  surfacing 
stuff  for  pattern  makers  this  machine  has  no  equal,  espe- 
cially when  knives  are  kept  sharp,  and  a  good,  supply 
should  always  be  on  hand. 

The  Trimmer  mentioned  is  also  a  very  valuable  addi- 
tion to  the  pattern  shop,  in  fact,  it  has  come  to  be  a 
standard  tool,  and  the  shop  that  is  without  one  is  away 
behind  and  had  better  hurry  up  and  get  at  least  one. 

I  believe  the  success  of  this  machine  and  its  being 
adopted  so  generally  in  pattern  making,  is  due  to  the 
fact  that  it  was  invented  by  a  pattern  maker  who  de- 
signed it  at  the  time  for  pattern  making.  The  Trimmer 
has  certainly  done  away  with  a  great  deal  of  the  paring 
that  used  to  done  with  a  chisel,  and  which  was  exceed- 
ingly laborious,  as  most  of  my  readers  know,  especially 
when  cutting  end-way  of  the  grain.  For  building  up 
segment  work  the  Trimmer  has  become  almost  an  indis- 
pensable tool,  and  will  cut  as  straight  and  as  clean  as  it  is 
possible  to  cut  wood.  Figs,  i  and  2  are  two  views  of  the 
smallest  size  Trimmer  made  by  the  Fox  Machine  Co., 
Grand  Rapids,  Mich.  The  illustrations  will  give  the  nec- 
essary explanation  and  will  be  readily  understood.  The 
Company  make  several  sizes  and  the  most  fastidious 
"  wood  butcher  "  can  be  suited. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  go  into  the  details  of  pattern 
shop  requirements,  but  there  is  a  mechanical  paper  pub- 
lished that  ought  to  be  considered  a  requirement  for 


8  PATTERN  MAKING. 

pattern  makers,  and  that  is  the  American  Machinist. 
There  is  no  doubt  but  that  this  is  the  best  and  cheapest 
technical  educator  we  have,  for  it  contains  more  practical 
ideas  for  doing  work  in  all  the  branches  of  the  machinery 
business  than  most  papers. 


PATTERN  MAKING. 


MARKING   AND    RECORDING    PATTERNS. 

THE  practice  .of  fixing  a  mark  or  symbol  on  a  pat- 
tern to  distinguish  it  from  others,  is  an  excellent  one. 
The  pattern  department  of  any  firm  cannot  afford  to  dis- 
regard the  marking  and  recording  of  its  patterns.  In  many 
places  a  large  stock  is  accumulated,  regardless  of  any 
system ;  the  man  who  looks  after  them  calls  it "  Red  Tape  " 
to  mark  patterns  and  record  them,  and  says,  "  I  know 
where  to  find  any  pattern  without  any  such  nonsense ;  " 
at  the  same  time  they  may  be  piled  together  like  a  lot  of 
kindling-wood.  What  this  rule  of  thumb  individual  says 
about  knowing  where  to  find  any  pattern  may  be  true, 
but  should  any  unforeseen  circumstance  remove  him, 
who  is  to  find  the  patterns  and  know  about  each,  then  ? 

The  disadvantage  that  such  a  firm  labors  under 
through  not  adopting  some  system  of  marking  and  re- 
cording is  great.  To  those  who  have  no  system  I  would 
recommend  the  following  : — 

Fix  a  raised  letter  and  number  on  the  pattern,  so  that 
it  shall  appear  in  the  casting.  The  letter  is  to  designate 
the  class  of  machinery,  or  it  may  be  used  for  a  certain 
machine;  the  number,  to  distinguish  one  part  from 
another.  The  mark  that  each  pattern  gets  should  also 
be  put  on  the  drawings.  This  is  not  generally  done,  but 
I  think  if  it  were,  it  would  greatly  facilitate  the  work  in 
the  machine  shop.  The  method  which  I  worked  for 
many  years  is  shown  by  the  sample  entry  of  patterns 


10  PATTERN  MAKING. 

given  on  page  1 1 .  The  column  "  pattern  at "  will  be 
found  very  useful  to  those  sending  out  their  patterns  ;  it 
is  intended  to  show  where  the  patterns  are.  In  connec- 
tion with  this  column  an  index  is  made  showing  the 
names  of  firms  with  whom  business  is  done.  Each  firm 
is  given  a  number,  as  shown ;  when  a  pattern  is  sent  out, 
the  number  corresponding  to  the  firm  it  is  sent  to  is 
marked  with  lead  pencil  in  the  column,  "  pattern  at,"  and 
opposite,  the  pattern  that  is  sent  out ;  when  it  is  returned 
the  lead  pencil  mark  is  rubbed  out,  showing  that  it  has 
been  returned  and  stored  in  its  place. 

It  often  happens  that  in  a  set  of  patterns  for  a  certain 
machine,  there  are  those  that  will  do  for  other  machines ; 
in  such  cases  an  entry  should  be  made  in  the  sched- 
ule of  each  machine  that  this  piece  will  suit,  giving  the 
same  letter  and  number  of  the  pattern. 

There  is  always  a  large  number  of  miscellaneous  pat- 
terns that  cannot  be  so  well  classified,  yet  many  of  them 
are  often  used  and  need  marking ;  these  may  be  given  a 
symbol  and  entered  under  the  head  of  "  miscellaneous." 

There  are  also  some  rough  patterns  made,  the  kind 
that  is  generally  "  wanted  to  be  cast  to-day."  All  mould- 
ers are  acquainted  with  this  kind.  It  is  no  use  recording 
such  patterns,  as  they  are  seldom  used  the  second  time ; 
in  fact,  I  think  the  best  way  to  deal  with  this  class  is  to 
break  them  up. 

With  large  manufacturers  carrying  patterns  for  a  num- 
ber of  different  machines  and  many  classes  of  machinery, 
the  question  may  arise  what  to  do  when  the  alphabet  is 
exhausted.  When  that  happens,  two  letters  can  be  used 
to  designate  a  machine  or  a  class,  commencing  with  AB- 


PATTERN  MAKING. 
Sample  Entry  of  Patterns. 

18"  AND  20"  CORLISS  ENGINES. 

A. 


II 


SYMBOL. 

NAME  OF  PART. 

CASTINGS 
WANTED. 

|  WEIGHT. 

1  PATTERN 
1  AT 

REMARKS. 

CAST  IRON. 

A.    1 

Frame  for  18"  and  20" 

1 

Pattern  arranged  so  that 
it  may  be  set  for  various 

strokes. 

"      2 

1  8"  Cylinder,    -     -     - 

1 

«           «           <( 

"     3 

18"  Cylinder  Head,   - 

1 

1 

"      4 

20"  Cylinder,    .... 

1 

Arranged    to   be   set    to 
various  strokes. 

Etc. 

BRASS. 

A.  41 

Key   Heads   for   Motion 
Rods,  etc.,     - 

10 

"    42 

Connecting  Rod  Brass,     - 

1 

2 

Cross  Head  End. 

"    43 

«            «        « 

1 

Crank  Pin  End. 

Etc. 

CAST  STEEL. 

A.  51 

Cross  Head,,      -     -     - 

1 

3 

"    52 

Eccentric  Rod  Nut,     - 

2 

"    53 

Cross  Head  Nut,    - 

1 

INDEX  OF  FIRMS  AND  THEIR  NUMBERS. 

1.  EDDY  FOUNDRY  Co.  (Iron\  CHICAGO. 

2.  THOMAS  BROS.  M'F'G.  Co.  (Brass},  CHICAGO. 

3.  EUREKA  CAST-STEEL  Co.  (Steel},  CHESTER,  PA. 


12  PATTERN  MAKING. 

AC-AD,  etc.,  until  through  the  alphabet  again;  then 
begin  with  BC-BD-BE,  and  so  on ;  thus,  it  will  be  seen 
that  it  is  possible  to  have  a  large  combination  of  distinct 
and  separate  classes  without  confusion. 

The  advantage  of  recording  and  marking  patterns  is 
that  it  facilitates  ordering  the  castings  and  helps  to  pre- 
vent confusion  in  the  foundry.  When  the  order  for 
castings  is  written  out  (as  it  always  should  be)  for  the 
foundry,  the  mark  corresponding  to  that  on  the  pattern 
is  put  on  the  order  so  that  the  moulder  and  the  pattern 
maker  cannot  misunderstand  each  other  by  naming 
things  differently.  Again,  when  a  pattern  has  a  particu- 
lar mark,  every  loose  piece  (and  sometimes  there  are  a 
great  many)  belonging  to  the  pattern,  and  also  the  core- 
boxes,  can  be  stamped  with  a  mark  corresponding  to  the 
pattern.  The  benefit  of  this  is  apparent.  There  is  often 
much  trouble  caused  by  not  knowing  where  a  certain 
loose  piece  belongs,  and  castings  are  frequently  made 
minus  a  piece  just  because  the  moulder  did  not  know 
that  it  belonged  to  the  pattern ;  but  if  every  piece  is 
marked  as  I  have  said,  it  leaves  no  excuse  for  such  omis- 
sions. The  raised  letters  that  are  nailed  on  the  pattern 
help  greatly  in  checking  the  castings  when  received. 
Especially  is  the  marking  of  patterns  necessary  for  this, 
as  gentlemen  of  the  quill  profession,  who  generally  check 
the  goods,  are  not  usually  acquainted  with  the  names  of 
the  parts  of  machinery.  Also  by  this  method  the  finding 
of  patterns  is  rendered  easy  even  to  a  stranger;  that  is  if 
the  shelves  where  patterns  are  stored  are  marked  with 
the  letter  corresponding  to  the  class. 

Every  firm,  large  or  small,  should  have  some  such 
system  as  I  have  described. 


Fly.  6. 


Fig.  7. 


PRINTING-PRESS   CYLINDERS. 


PATTERN  MAKING.  13 


PRINTING-PRESS   CYLINDERS. 

SOME  printing-press  cylinders  have  the  ends  bored 
out  and  a  short  shaft  pressed  into  each  end,  while  others 
are  made  with  the  shaft  and  cylinder  cast  in  one,  Fig. 
3  is  a  section  and  end  view  of  the  latter. 

A  great  deal  of  trouble  is  often  experienced  in  getting 
perfect  castings  for  these  cylinders,  and  to  insure  good 
castings  they  are  cast  on  end  in  dry  sand,  or  at  least  they 
should  be ;  but  in  spite  of  all  the  preventives  used  against 
blowholes,  dirt,  etc.,  a  cylinder  will  sometimes  reveal 
defects  when  the  first  cut  is  being  taken  off  in  the  lathe. 

Though  cast  on  end,  the  cylinder  is  moulded  on  its 
side,  so  that  the  pattern  is  made  in  halves  in  the  ordinary 
way,  as  shown  in  Fig.  4. 

As  an  extra  precaution  against  defects  an  additional 
piece  five  or  six  inches  long  is  cast  on  the  end,  as  shown 
in  Fig.  3  from  a  to  b.,  the  pattern  therefore  should  be 
made  that  much  longer. 

The  extra  length  will  receive  the  impurities  of  the 
metal  which  rise  to  the  top  when  pouring.  It  is  made 
thicker  on  the  ends,  so  that  it  shall  form  a  head  which 
will  exert  a  pressure,  thus  helping  to  produce  a  clean 
and  sound  casting. 

Figs.  5,  6,  and  7  are  three  views  of  the  core-box. 
The  end  view,  Fig.  5,  shows  it  to  be  built  up  with  staves, 
which  are  nailed  to  three  crosspieces,  A,  B,  C.  The 


14  PATTERN  MAKING. 

box  is  strengthened  by  running  four  strips,  c,  d,  e,  f, 
lengthwise  on  top. and  bottom  of  the  box,  fastening  them 
to  the  crosspieces. 

Two  of  the  arms  in  each  set  are  let  in  about  y%n  on 
the  inside  to  keep  them  from  being  rammed  out  of  place, 
but  a  dowel  pin  is  put  in  each  of  the  arms  that  go  in  the 
bottom  of  box. 

This  is  a  very  plain  and  simple  job  in  pattern  making 
and  needs  no  further  comment. 


'Fig.  9 


Fly.  ±0. 


Flu-  8 


^s&s .  ggfe^^ 


DIFFERENTIAL  CHAIN  WHEELS. 


PATTERN  MAKING.  15 


DIFFERENTIAL  CHAIN  PULLEYS. 

WHEN  the  groove  in  a  chain  wheel  or  pulley  is  made 
to  fit  the  links  of  a  chain  it  is  sure  to  be  an  expensive 
pattern,  especially  when  made  double,  like  those  used  in 
Weston's  Differential  Pulley  Blocks. 

Figs.  9  and  10  are  two  views  of  one  of  this  kind  of 
pulley.  Fig.  10  shows  a  half  section  and  the  pockets  for 
the  chain.  Fig.  9  is  a  section  through  the  groove  C,  D, 
of  the  large  pulley,  which  has  one  more  pocket  than  the 
smaller  one.  This  view  also  shows  how  the  chain  fits 
into  the  pockets. 

It  may  not  be  out  of  place  here  to  make  a  few  remarks 
about  this  celebrated  Differential  Pulley  Block  that  has 
so  revolutionized  the  lifting  of  heavy  weights,  and  for 
which  this  kind  of  pulley  was  used,  in  fact,  this  pulley 
was  the  main  feature  of  the  patent.  T.  A.  Weston  was 
in  this  country  when  he  conceived  the  idea  that  led  up 
to  the  Differential  Pulley  Block. 

While  Mr.  Weston  was  at  Buffalo,  witnessing  attempts 
to  raise  a  vessel  that  had  gone  down  off  that  city,  the 
thought  occurred  to  him  that  the  necessary  power  could 
be  obtained  from  the  Chinese  windlass,  the  rope  of  which 
winds  on  two  unequal  diameters,  that  is,  one  half  the 
length  of  the  barrel  is  larger  in  diameter  than  the  other. 
This  is  practically  what  this  pulley  block  is  developed 
from, 


1 6  PATTERN  MAKING, 

After  much  scheming,  Weston  returned  to  England 
and  called  on  numerous  engineering  establishments,  sub- 
mitting his  drawings,  but  he  could  find  none  that  would 
take  hold  and  experiment  on  his  block.  Finally  he  called 
into  a  small  job  shop  where  the  proprietors  themselves 
were  working  men,  paying  the  extravagant  rent  of  ten 
shillings  a  week,  and  employing  six  men.  That  firm 
has  grown  since  then  and  employs  as  many  thousands 
now.  I  refer  to  Tangye  Bros.,  Birmingham. 

These  brothers  labored  hard  to  make  the  block  work, 
and  experienced  many  unexpected  difficulties,  and  when 
they  had  perfected  it  and  made  it  a  commercial  success, 
a  new  difficulty  presented  itself  in  the  shape  of  a  law-suit 
in  which  the  Tangyes  won.  It  is  pretty  hard  to  conceive 
of  any  taller  swearing  than  was  practised  by  the  would- 
be  infringers  in  this  case,  but  I  will  return  to  the  pattern 
of  the  pulley. 

They  are  sometimes  made  so  that  all  the  links  of  the 
chain  fit  into  the  pockets,  but  this  is  an  unnecessary 
expense.  The  links  of  the  chain  that  set  edgewise  in 
the  pulley  do  not  need  to  fit  into  pockets  like  those 
shown  at  a,  in  Fig.  8.  If  the  grooves  bb,  in  Fig.  10, 
be  turned  deep  enough  to  clear  these  links  and  pockets 
made  for  the  other  links  to  set  in,  it  will  be  sufficient 
to  catch  the  chain,  and  will  work  better  than  otherwise. 

The  groove  is  sometimes  formed  in  a  core-box,  and  a 
print  put  on  the  periphery  of  the  pattern,  thus  making 
fewer  partings  in  the  patterns  as  well  as  the  mould ;  but  a 
much  cleaner  and  better  casting  can  be  obtained  from  a 
pattern  with  the  groove  for  the  chain  cut  in  it. 

Fig.  1 1  is  the  section  of  the  pattern  and  show^s  how  it 


PATTERN  MAKING.  17 

is  made.  The  mould  is  also  represented  with  the  cope 
lifted  off,  the  partings  being  at  £,  F,  G.  The  pattern  is 
built  up  with  segments  and  made  in  four  parts,  cy  d,  e,  f. 
As  will  be  seen,  the  casting  is  cored  out  at  A.  B.,  in  Fig. 
10. 

Fig.  1 2  is  a  section  of  the  core-box  for  this  core,  and 
is  parted  at  H.  The  core  sets  into  the  round  prints  g. 
g. ;  but  there  are  no  cope  prints,  for  the  reason  that  it  is 
not  easy  to  close  the  cope  over  the  six  round  .projecting 
cores.  In  the  absence  of  these  cope  prints  the  moulder 
will  need  to  take  care  that  the  cope  bears  on  the  top  of 
these  projecting  cores  enough  to  prevent  the  iron  from 
running  in  the  vent  holes  of  the  core,  when  pouring. 

This  lightening  core  can  be  made  in  halves  or  whole, 
just  as  the  core-maker  chooses. 


1 8  PATTERN  MAKING. 


A   HANDY    TOOL   EOR   LAYING   OUT 
HEXAGON    NUTS. 

FIG.  13  illustrates  a  tool  for  laying  out  hexagon  nuts, 
and  is  very  handy  to  pattern  makers ;  the  section  of  it  is 
shown  at  A.  The  upper  part,  which  is  a  light  steel 
blade,  is  screwed  on  the  lower  part,  which  is  made  of 
hard  wood  and  is  used  in  the  following  manner.  After 
turning  pattern  to  long  diameter  of  nut,  place  the  tool  on 
pattern  like  a  center  square,  move  it  round  and  mark  off 
sides — keeping  the  two  under  edges  in  contact  with  cir- 
cle— this  is  better  and  quicker  than  dividing  off  with 
compasses  and  then  marking  sides. 


Fig.  13. 


Tool  for  laying  out  Hexagon  Nuts 


Fig.  14. 


Fig.  15.^ 

Dry  Sand  Cores,.          C 

— 


Ho ic  to  Cast  Boxes  on  the  Sides  of  Frames. 


Chord  ^Ter.Sin.  U 


How  to  Strike  a  Curve  when  the  Centre  is  Inaccessible 
Fig.  16. 


PA  TTERN  MAKING,  \  9 


HOW   TO    CAST   JOURNAL   BOXES   ON   FRAMES. 

THE  part  of  a  frame  shown  in  Figs.  14  and  15  is  one 
of  those  jobs  that  at  first  looks  a  little  troublesome  for 
moulding,  and  yet,  upon  examination  the  trouble  vanish- 
es. The  two  views  show  part  of  a  frame  with  two  boxes 
cast  on  the  sides.  The  shape  of  this  frame  is  such  as  to 
necessitate  casting  the  boxes  down ;  it  will  be  seen  that 
there  is  not  enough  room  to  draw  in  the  boxes,  the  sides, 
A  and  B,  not  being  thick  enough  to  allow  it.  This  diffi- 
culty may  be  overcome  by  making  the  pattern  as  shown. 
The  boxes  are  loose  and  located  on  the  sides  of  pattern 
with  loose  dowel  pins  that  can  be  pulled  out  while  ram- 
ming up ;  two  cores  are  made  and  dried  for  the  boxes, 
and  rammed  up  with  the  pattern  to  Cy  after  which  the 
cores  are  taken  out,  and  the  sides  of  box^es,  i,  2,  3  and 
the  bracket,  4,  are  drawn.  The  cores  for  boxes  are  then 
replaced  and  covered  over  with  sand,  the  flask  rammed 
up  and  rolled  over.  There  are  other  ways  of  making 
this  pattern ;  a  core  print  might  have  been  put  on  the 
pattern,  as  shown  by  dotted  lines,  and  a  core-box  made 
with  box  pattern  in  it ;  but  the  above  way  of  doing  it 
makes  a  cleaner  job.  This  plan  is  adopted  on  many  jobs 
where  there  is  not  room  enough  to  draw  in  loose  pieces. 


20  PATTERN  MAKING. 


HOW   TO   STRIKE   AN   ARC   BY   THE   AID 
OF   THREE    POINTS. 

IT  is  sometimes  required  to  lay  off  an  arc,  the  radius  of 
which  is  given ;  but  the  radius  may  happen  to  be  so 
great  as  to  render  it  inconvenient  to  locate  a  center  to 
strike  the  arc  from,  or  the  center  may  be  inaccessible 
from  various  reasons;  under  these  conditions  the  ques- 
tion arises  what  to  do  to  get  the  arc. 

The  following  is  by  no  means  new,  yet  it  is  so  little 
understood  by  pattern  makers  generally,  that  I  think  it 
worth  while  presenting.  The  all- important,  in  this  prob- 
lem, is  to  know  how  to  get  the  point  C,  or  the  versed 
sine  of  arc  in  Fig.  16;  this  must  be  calculated  before 
anything  can  be  done  towards  striking  the  arc.  Let  us 
suppose  the  line  A  B  to  be  ,  say  4  ft.,  and  to  represent 
the  chord  of  an  arc  whose  radius  is  20  ft. ;  it  is  required 
to  strike  this  arc  without  using  the  center.  By  using 
the  following  formula  the  desired  point  can  be  obtained : 
v=R —  ^R2 — c2.  This  formula  need  not  scare  anyone 
who  is  not  familiar  with  algebraical  expressions;  it  is 
very  simple,  let  us  examine  it.  v  is  the  versed  sine,  R, 
the  radius,  c,  the  semi-chord,  v  is  what  we  want  to  get. 
The  formula  means  that  the  square  of  half  the  chord, 
which  is  4  ft.,  must  be  deducted  from  the  square  of 
the  radius,  which  is  400  ft.,  this  will  give  396  ft. ;  then 
extract  the  square  root  (y)  of  396  ft.  which  is  about 


PATTERN  MAKING.  21 

19.9:  the  formula  is  now  reduced  to  v=R — 19.9.  which 
means  that  19.9  must  be  deducted  from  R,  the  radius, 
20  ft.,  this  leaves  T^  of  a  foot;  TV  of  a  foot  is  i^;/+ which 
is  the  required  versed  sine. 

Having  obtained  the  versed  sine  of  this  arc,  it  is  an 
easy  matter  now  to  strike  the  arc — it  is  done  by  cutting 
a  piece  of  wood  to  an  angle,  two  sides  of  which  run  from 
point  C  and  through  A  B\  drive  a  wire  nail  at  each 
point  of  A  and  B  in  the  piece  on  which  the  arc  is  to  be 
struck.  It  will  be  readily  seen  now,  that,  keeping  the 
sides  of  angle  against  A  B,  and  moving  it  right  and  left, 
the  arc  can  be  traced  by  following  with  a  lead  pencil  the 
point  C.  The  principle  of  this  is  the  same  as  many  pat- 
tern makers  are  familiar  with — that  of  using  a  square 
for  a  templet  when  working  out  a  half-circle  core-box. 


22  PATTERN  MAKING. 


KEY   HEADS   FOR   MOTION   RODS. 

AN    EASY  WAY  TO    LESSEN    THE    COST    OF    THEIR    PRODUCTION. 

THE  cost  of  getting  out  brass  key  heads  for  motion 
rods  may  be  considerably  reduced  in  the  machine  shop 
by  the  pattern  maker  doing  a  little  scheming  and  the 
brass  moulder  exercising  care  in  moulding. 

Figs.  17  and  18  are  two  views  of  a  key  head,  with 
block  A  in  place.  A  dry  piece  of  cherry  or  mahogany 
should  be  selected  and  the  pattern  made  as  shown  in 
Figs.  19  and  20;  it  should  be  in  halves,  B  C  being  the 
parting  line.  D  £,  Fig.  20,  are  core  prints  which  carry 
the  core  horizontally.  After  the  core  is  located  a  steel 
key  is  set  in  the  mould  into  the  print  a,  the  cope  print  b 
bringing  the  key  upright  when  cope  is  being  closed. 
The  box  for  the  core  is  shown  in  Figs.  21  and  22  and  is 
doweled  together  at  c  d,  Fig  2 1  ;  a  key  passes  through 
this  core-box,  which  makes  a  groove  in  the  core  to  re- 
ceive the  steel  key. 

It  is  the  intention,  when  the  castings  of  these  heads 
are  being  fitted  up,  to  file  the  round  ends,  while  the  sides 
are  to  be  finished  in  the  machine,  therefore  the  stock 
allowed  for  machine  finish  must  stop  off  at/"^*. 

There  need  be  no  fear  of  chilling  the  sides  of  the  holes 
through  casting  steel  keys  in  these  heads ;  the  effect  is 
rather  the  reverse  of  what  would  happen  in  cast  iron,  for 
it  is  well  known  that  if  the  same  thing  were  to  be  done 


7la\  19. 


Fly 


Fiy.  2O. 


KEY    HEADS. 


PATTERN  MAKING.  2$ 

in  cast  iron,  the  sides  of  the  holes  would  be  so  hard  that 
it  would  be  almost  impossible  to  dress  them  out  with  a 
file.  A  number  of  keys  should  be  made  expressly  for 
casting  into  the  heads,  and  they  ought  to  be  nicely  fin- 
ished, having  about  ^'f  taper  sideways ;  this  will  enable 
them  to  be  easily  driven  out. 

I  have  seen  much  time  wasted  in  the  machine  shop 
making  these  key  heads,  such  as  drilling  and  chipping 
out  the  key  hole  from  the  solid,  and  finishing  the  round 
end  in  a  shaper.  This  led  me  to  devise  the  above  sim- 
ple way  of  casting  them,  which  has  proved  a  great  saving. 

When  making  large  quantities  of  these  castings,  a 
wood  pattern  will  necessarily  get  broken  and  badly 
marked  with  the  moulder's  vent  wire,  so  that  under  such 
circumstances,  a  metal  pattern  and  core-box  would  be 
more  serviceable.  I  would  therefore  propose  that  the 
standard  pattern  be  made  of  aluminum  and  the  core-box 
of  cast  iron.  Aluminum  is  just  the  metal  that  is  wanted 
for  such  small  patterns,  because  it  possesses  the  two  nec- 
essary and  important  elements  most  desirable  for  pat- 
terns, strength  and  lightness  in  weight ;  a  very  nice  sur- 
face can  also  be  made  on  this  metal,  which  is  also  the 
thing  needed. 

Moulders  do  not  like  a  heavy  pattern,  for  the  reason 
that  it  is  not  so  easily  drawn  as  a  light  one. 


24  PATTERN  MAKING. 


ELBOW  AND  TEE   PIPES. 

A   QUICK    METHOD    FOR   TURNING    THE    PATTERNS   AND 
CORE-BOXES    IN    THE    LATHE. 

MAKING  patterns  for  elbow  and  tee  pipes,  if  made  the 
right  way,  is  comparatively  simple,  because  nearly  all 
the  work  can  be  done  in  the  lathe.  For  turning  out 
a  large  number  of  castings  the  elbow  pattern  should  be 
constructed  as  shown  in  Fig.  23,  so  that  two  elbows 
can  be  moulded  together.  A  ring  is  turned  like  Fig.  24, 
the  section  of  it  being  a  half  circle,  the  same  size  as  the 
pipe ;  this  ring  is  cut  in  quarters  as  shown,  and  the  four 
pieces  used  to  make  quarter  turns  for  the  elbows.  In 
Fig.  23,  the  two  spicket  ends  A  and  B,  and  the  sockets, 
with  core  prints,  are  turned  on  one  stick  and  cut  off;  the 
stick  should  be  sawed  off  long  enough  to  permit  of 
tongues  being  turned  on  A  and  B,  and  the  sockets}  for 
fastening  them  to  the  elbows ;  dowel  pins  should  be  ar- 
ranged to  come  one  in  each  socket,  and  in  the  print 
between  A  and  B,  as  marked.  Fig.  25  represents  the 
core-box,  and,  like  the  pattern,  most  of  the  work  can  be 
done  in  the  lathe  and  the  parts  joined  together,  as  shown; 
a  piece  screwed  on  the  back  will  hold  the  parts  to- 
gether. The  core  is  generally  made  in  halves,  so  that 
a  full  box  will  not  be  needed,  and  therefore  only  two 
quarters  are  used  for  the  turns.  In  some  cases  these  two 
quarters  that  are  left  may  be  used  to  turn  the  socket  ends 


Fig.  25. 


Fig.  24. 


Fig.  20. 


Fig.  27. 


Fig.  28. 


ELBOWS    AND    TEE    PIPES. 


PATTERN  MAKING.  2$ 

C  and  D.  The  dotted  lines  show  that  in  this  case ;  the 
pieces  left  over  cannot  be  used  without  cutting  out  the 
corner  E  and  inserting  a  piece;  in  a  small  elbow  it  would 
not  be  worth  while  to  do  this,  but  for  a  larger  pattern  it 
would  probably  pay. 

Figs.  26,  27,  and  28  show  the  manner  of  making  a 
pattern  for  a  tee  pipe,  and  will  need  but  little  explana- 
tion, as  it  is  made  much  in  the  same  way  as  the  elbow, 
all  the  parts  being  turned  and  fitted  together.  In 
addition  to  being  quartered,  the  sides  of  the  ring  in  Fig. 
27  are  cut  off  and  the  parts  joined  together  at  Ft  Fig.  26. 
The  parts  for  the  core-box  are  also  cut  this  way.  Be- 
fore gluing  the  joint  ^together  it  should  be  sized  with 
glue,  after  which  the  joint  will  be  very  strong  when  put 
together ;  the  socket  will  also  help  to  hold  the  pattern 
together  at  this  point.  This  form  of  tee  is  to  be  preferred 
to  the  right  angle  ones,  because  of  its  extra  strength  and 
the  gradual  merging  of  the  passages  into  each  other, 
which  renders  the  flow  of  water,  etc.,  easy. 


26  PATTERN  MAKING, 


SLIDE   VALVE   CYLINDERS. 

SLIDE  valve  cylinders  are  made  in  a  great  variety  of 
forms.  I  have  chosen  and  represented  here  a  well-known 
type,  of  which  Figs.  30,  31,  and  32  are  three  views. 
Fig.  3 1  is  a  cross  section  through  the  steam  chest  and 
exhaust  port,  and  Fig.  32  is  a  section  through  the  steam 
port. 

The  way  of  making  the  pattern  for  this  cylinder  de- 
pends largely  upon  the  size  of  it ;  if  the  diameter  is  to 
be,  say  less  than  1 2",  the  body  of  the  cylinder  may  be 
built  up  solid,  but  when  above  that  size  it  would  be  bet- 
ter to  build  the  pattern  with  staves,  as  shown  in  Figs.  33 
and  34.  But  one-half  of  the  pattern  is  shown,  which  will 
be  all  that  is  needed  for  explanation.  An  extra  thick- 
ness is  glued  on  each  stave  large  enough  for  turning  the 
body  of  the  cylinder  to  the  required  diameter,  thus 
allowing  the  prints  and  the  cylinder  to  be  in  one,  which 
is  far  better  than  fastening  on  the  prints.  The  flanges  are 
made  thick  enough  to  turn  the  fillet  on  the  back  of  them. 
They  should  be  got  out,  as  shown  in  Fig.  35  ;  this  will 
prevent  the  shrinkage  of  the  wood  from  affecting  the 
flanges  to  any  great  extent. 

When  the  body  of  the  cylinder  is  built  up  and  turned, 
the  steam  chest  is  made  and  fitted  on,  as  seen  in  Figs.  36 
and  37.  The  pieces  for  the  exhaust  passage  A,  and 
those  to  form  a  thickness  over  the  ports,  are  also  shown 


riff,  so. 


Fig.  41.  Fly.  42. 


SLIDE    VALVE    CYLINDERS. 


PATTERN  MAKING.  27 

in  place.  The  fillets  at  a  b,  Fig.  36,  are  cut  out  of  a  thick- 
ness that  is  inserted  between  the  end  of  the  steam  chest 
and  port  pieces ;  there  is  no  danger  of  the  fillets  coming 
out  when  made  in  this  way. 

The  strips  on  the  steam  chest,  which  give  an  extra 
thickness  of  metal  for  the  studs,  are  loose  and  put  on 
with  long  dowel  pins,  so  that  they  can  be  drawn  separ- 
ately, also  the  valve  stem  stuffing  box,  c,  and  the  facing, 
d,  around  the  steam  opening  are  loose.  The  strips  are 
shown  at  e,  Fig  37,  let  in  about  T3/'  around  the  sides  of 
the  steam  chest;  this  is  done  to  prevent  them  being 
rammed  out  of  place  after  the  dowel  pins  have  been  taken 
out.  The  core  print  f  should  be  doweled  on,  because 
if  it  is  made  fast  it  is  very  probable  that  the  moulder 
will  tear  it  off,  for  it  is  a  great  convenience  for  him  to 
have  this  print  to  place  back  in  the  bottom  of  his  mould 
while  dressing  it  up. 

Fig5-  38,  39  and  40  represent  the  core-box  for  the 
steam  port.  Fig.  38  is  a  side  view  with  the  side  A 
taken  away.  The  core  is  swept  off  on  the  outside  for 
the  length  of  x,  but  the  piece  c  is  made  to  finish  the  out- 
side, because  the  core  changes  from  a  circular  into  a 
a  straight  part,  just  where  it  is  entering  the  steam  chest. 
Fig.  39  is  an  end  view  of  this  box,  with  the  end  B,  in 
Fig.  38,  taken  away.  Fig.  40  is  a  plan  view  and  will  be 
understood  from  Figs.  38  and  39. 

The  exhaust  port  core-box  is  made  in  halves ;  one-half 
is  shown  in  Figs.  41  and  42 ;  the  other  half  is,  of  course, 
like  this,  except  that  it  is  made  the  opposite  hand,  so 
that  the  two  halves  shall  fit  when  put  together.  The 
dotted  line  in  the  end  view,  in  Fig.  42,  shows  how  the 


28  PA  TTERN  MAKING. 

passage  is  widened  to  maintain  the  same  area  through- 
out ;  that  is,  it  is  cut  down  along  the  part  in  the  direction 
of  arrow  in  Fig.  41. 

The  steam  chest  core-box  is  made  as  seen  in  Figs.  43, 
44,  and  45  ;  the  side  and  end  are  taken  off  in  Figs.  43 
and  44,  to  show  the  inside ;  the  piece  D  that  forms  the 
valve  face  is  screwed  on  the  bottom,  and  the  sides  fit 
over  it;  this  core  is  the  first  that  is  set  in  the  mould, 
then  the  exhaust  and  steam  port  cores  are  set  into  I,  2, 
and  3,  Fig.  45. 


Fig.  48.       Section  thro' A.B. 

Dowell  Plates 

Section  thro'  C.D. 


7;' 


,    Fig.  50.    1 


.g  End     7  JJ        Fast  End  7 


Fig.  49. 


Fig.  53. 


Flange 


Fig.  54 


Fig.  52. 


Fig.  57. 

CORLISS    CYLINDERS. 


PATTERN* MAKING.  29 


CORLISS   CYLINDERS. 

SHOWING    HOW    TO    CONSTRUCT    PATTERNS    AND    CORE-BOXES 

WHICH    CAN     BE    CHANGED     AT    SHORT    NOTICE 

FOR   DIFFERENT    STROKE    ENGINES. 

IT  is  often  required  in  shops  building  engines  that  a 
cylinder  pattern  be  so  constructed  that  it  will  serve  for 
engines  of  different  strokes.  To  illustrate  one  way  of 
making  a  pattern  like  this  I  have  chosen  a  Corliss  Cylin- 
der. Fig.  46  shows  the  wrist  plate  side  and  half  section 
of  cylinder.  Fig.  47  is  a  section  through  A  B,  and  Fig. 
48  is  a  section  through  A'  B' .  As  both  halves  of  pat- 
tern are  almost  alike,  it  will  only  be  necessary  to  deal 
with  one  half. 

Experience  has  taught  me  that  TV  to  the  foot  is 
enough  to  allow  for  shrinkage  on  a  job  of  this  kind. 
Use  first  quality  dry  lumber ;  it  will  pay  to  take  some 
pains  in  selecting  stuff  for  this  pattern ;  for,  if  the  lumber 
is  not  thoroughly  dry,  before  the  pattern  is  completed,  it 
will  be  found  that  dimensions  are  scant. 

By  referring  to  Fig  49,  it  will  be  seen,  that  to  make  a 
pattern  for  different  stroke  engines,  I  have  arranged  it  to 
slide  like  a  telescope.  Fig.  49  is  shown  pulled  apart,  and 
illustrates  how  the  pattern  is  built.  Fig.  50  is  a  section 
of  Fig.  49  through  C  D ;  the  lagging  a  b  c  d  e,  in  Fig. 
50,  is  taken  off  in  Fig.  49  to  facilitate  explanation.  An 


3O  PA  TTERN  MAKING. 

inner  box  is  first  made,  the  length,  width,  and  depth  of/ 
g  h  in  Figs.  49  and  50,  and  doweled  together  with  iron 
dowel  plates  like  sketch.  Build  out  each  side  of  this  in- 
ner box  for  about  two-fifths  of  its  length  to  width  G,  in 
Fig.  46,  then  fasten  on  strongly  three  cross  pieces  num- 
bered i,  2,  3.  For  future  reference  I  will  name  this  the 
"  Fast  End." 

In  Figs.  49  and  50,  the  outside  piece  marked  7  should 
be  made  wide  enough  for  the  exhaust  passage  in  Fig.  47. 
Notice  that  in  making  the  inner  core-box  the  board  K  is 
cut  in  two  so  that  one  piece  may  form  a  part  of  the  slid- 
ing end.  On  the  sides  of  box,  glue  and  screw  two 
guides  marked  £  Fin  Figs.  49  and  50;  on  each  side  of 
these  guides,  fit  pieces  that  shall  slide  over  them,  and  se- 
cure them  to  the  two  outside  pieces,  7  and  8.  This  will 
make  the  sliding  end  the  same  width  as  fast  end.  Now 
fasten  the  cross  pieces,  4,  5,6,  and  piece  K,  to  the  two 
slides,  and  be  careful  not  to  get  any  of  them  glued  to  the 
box;  the  lagging  a  b  c  d  e,  in  Fig.  50  will  hold  this 
sliding  end  together,  and,  as  the  pattern  progresses,  other 
parts  will  make  it  secure.  The  piece  t  forms  the  core 
print  for  coring  out  the  space  7J  that  separates  exhaust 
passage  from  body  of  cylinder.  (See  Figs.  46  and  47). 

In  Fig.  49  we  have  now  a  foundation  to  build  on,  and 
have  made  it  the  width  of  G  in  Fig.  46.  At  this  stage, 
the  length  of  the  pattern,  when  closed  for  the  shortest 
cylinder  required,  should  be  the  length  of  the  cylinder, 
minus  the  thickness  of  two  flanges  and  I  \"  for  fillets  on 
back  of  flanges.  Fig.  5 1  represents  the  pattern  closed, 
with  a  filling  piece,  Hy  put  into  it  and  the  framework  of 
Fig.  49  all  closed  up. 


PATTERN  MAKING.  31 

Proceed  next  to  get  out  the  end  flanges,  valve  cham- 
bers, port  pieces,  etc.,  and  build  on.  Get  out  the  flanges, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  52,  glue  on  three  pieces,  /,  f,J,  f" 
thick ;  this  f  "  thickness  is  for  carving  the  fillets  on 
backs  of  flanges,  and  makes  by  far  the  best  job.  It  must 
be  remembered  that  the  cylinder  illustrated  here  is  sup- 
posed to  be  a  standard  pattern,  from  which  a  large  num- 
ber of  castings  may  be  taken,  so  that  in  this  case  the 
best  way  will  be  the  cheapest  in  the  end. 

Glue  and  screw  on  the  end  flanges,  shown  in  Fig.  52, 
and  the  side  pieces,  a1  b'  c'  d',  Fig.  51,  for  the  valve 
chambers.  Build  some  blocks  together,  same  shape  as 
shown  in  Fig.  53,  and  fasten  them  in  place  at  J  J,  to 
form  the  ends  for  steam  valve  chambers.  For  very  large 
cylinders  these  pieces  had  better  be  boxed.  For  the 
ends  of  exhaust  valve  chambers,  L  L,  make  plain  square 
blocks ;  now  make  the  exhaust  passages  the  right  height, 
by  gluing  on  piece  9  in  Figs.  5 1  and  54 ;  after  this,  fit  in 
the  pieces  10,  11,  12,  13,  Fig.  51,  that  give  a  thickness 
of  metal  over  the  steam  and  exhaust  ports.  All  is  now 
ready  for  rounding  off  the  corners  and  side  of  steam 
passage,  and  cutting  the  fillets. 

Check  down  the  two  inner  edges  on  ends  of  valve 
chambers  (See  Fig.  46).  This  is  to  allow  the  bonnets 
to  lap  over  and  cover  the  joint  of  the  black  walnut  lag- 
ging, that  these  cylinders  are  generally  cased  in.  I  have 
said  that  both  halves  of  pattern  were  almost  alike ;  the 
difference  between  them  is,  the  center  piece  for  bolting 
the  wrist  plate  to  is  usually  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
small  bosses  that  take  the  indicator  pipe ;  also  the  valve 
chambers  are  made  about  one  inch  longer  on  the  cope 


32  PATTERN  MAKING. 

side  of  the  pattern  than  on  the  drag  side;  this  is  done  to 
insure  solid  ends  after  this  extra  inch  is  planed  off  the 
casting. 

When  casting  these  cylinders,  all  dirt  and  flux  that  is 
in  the  mould  and  metal  rise  to  those  four  high  places 
and  stick  there ;  hence,  the  necessity  of  extra  stock  on 
the  ends  of  valve  chambers. 

In  turning  the  eight  round  core  prints  for  the  valve 
chambers  make  those  in  the  cope  as  much  shorter  than 
those  in  the  drag,  as  the  extra  stock  just  mentioned ;  in 
other  words,  the  core  prints  should  measure  the  same 
length  from  the  joint  of  pattern  on  both  halves.  The 
necessity  of  this  will  be  seen  when  we  come  to  make  the 
core-boxes.  Give  these  prints  plenty  of  taper,  because  it 
will  help  the  moulder  to  feel  his  way  when  dropping  in 
the  cores  of  valve  chambers ;  it  will  also  help  to  bring 
the  cores  upright  when  dropping  on  the  cope. 

Now  fit  on  the  pieces  x  and  z,  to  take  the  exhaust  and 
steam  flanges  (see  Fig.  46),  and,  as  these  pieces  are  to 
be  removed  for  sliding  the  pattern  out  and  in,  they  must 
only  be  doweled  and  screwed  on.  Screw  the  core  prints 
on  these  pieces  from  the  back.  The  center  piece,  7,  Fig. 
46,  should  only  be  doweled  on.  Build  up  the  core  prints 
for  bore  of  cylinder,  as  shown,  and  turn  a  flat  fillet  on 
them  at  y,  Fig.  5 1 .  This  will  prevent  crushing  the  edge 
of  sand  when  putting  the  core  in  and  dropping  on  the 
cope.  Turn  these  prints  whole  and  saw  in  halves  with, 
band  saw  after  turning  them ;  for  large  cylinders  it  will 
be  better  to  build  these  prints  with  staves.  We  may  now 
consider  the  pattern  finished. 

There  are  many  details  which  are  omitted,  because 


Jf'1-f/.  50  M 


Fiy. 


CCRUSS  CYLINDERS, 


PATTERN  MAKING.  33 

they  are  such  as  the  pattern  maker  will  naturally  run 
against ;  so  let  us  leave  the  pattern  and  start  in  on  the 
core-boxes  for  the  steam  and  exhaust  passages,  valve 
chambers,  etc. 

It  will  scarcely  be  necessary  to  enter  into  the  minor 
details  of  making  the  core-boxes,  seeing  that  I  have 
shown  both  cores  and  core-boxes  for  the  steam  and  ex- 
haust sides  of  a  cylinder. 

However,  a  few  explanations  may  be  necessary.  Like 
the  cylinder  pattern,  I  have  only  shown  half  sections  of 
cores;  Figs.  55,  56,  57,  are  three  views  of  the  core  for 
steam  passage  and  valve  chambers.  A  half  core-box  is 
all  that  is  needed  to  make  this  core,  the  joint  of  it  being 
on  line  O  Df,  and  the  joint  of  core-box  on  line  E'  F. 

Figs.  58,  59,  and  60  are  three  views  of  the  core  for 
exhaust  passage  and  valve  chambers,  also  made  with  a 
half  core-box. 

The  core-box  for  the  steam  core  is  constructed  as 
shown  in  Figs.  61  and  62.  The  port  cores,  e' /',in  Fig. 
57,  are  made  separate,  and  pasted  in;  the  core  prints  to 
receive  these  port  cores  are  seen  at  e'  f  in  Fig.  62. 
Like  the  pattern,  these  boxes  are  made  so  that  the  length 
can  be  changed.  In  Fig.  62  the  joint,  gr,  for  the  length 
of  h) ',  is  not  glued,  there  being  a  tongue  or  guide  for  this 
surface  to  slide  in ;  the  piece,  z,  is  loose,  which  can  be 
taken  out,  thus  allowing  the  valve  chamber  part  to  be 
slipped  toward  the  center  as  may  be  required;  on  the 
inlet  side  of  this  box,  the  joint  m,  for  the  length  of  0, 
and  the  joint  n,  for  the  length  of/,  is  also  made  to  slide, 
and  when  the  box  is  to  be  shortened,  the  two  pieces,  r 
and  s,  are  taken  out,  which  will  allow  the  valve  cham- 


34  PATTERN  MAKING. 

bers  to  be  slipped  toward  the  center;  each  side  of  the 
inlet  is  alike.  The  reason  there  are  more  loose  pieces  on 
this  side  of  the  core-box  than  the  other,  is  because  the 
inlet  must  always  be  located  midway  between  the  two 
valve  chambers. 

The  exhaust  core-box  of  which  Figs.  63,  64,  65,  66 
and  67  are  five  views,  is  made  open  on  one  side  between 
the  valve  chambers,  and  as  this  open  side  is  a  plain 
straight  surface,  it  can  be  swept  off  with  a  sweep,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  67.  The  valve  chambers  are  round,  all 
the  way  through,  in  this  core,  as  will  be  seen  by  referring 
to  Fig.  58.  Like  the  core-box  for  the  steam  side,  two 
pieces,  vy  w,  Figs.  63,  64,  are  inserted,  for  changing  the 
length.  Fig.  67  shows  a  section  of  the  box ;  the  side  x, 
is  carried  above  the  center  line  of  valve  chambers. 

Fig.  60  shows  the  side  of  core  runs  over  the  center 
line  G,  H,  hence  the  necessity  of  carrying  one  side  of  the 
box  above  the  center  of  valve  chambers. 

Figs.  65,  66,  are  two  views  of  the  port  halves  of  valve 
chambers,  and,  like  the  steam  core,  the  port  cores  are 
made  separate  and  pasted  in. 

The  core-boxes  for  the  exhaust  and  steam  ports  are 
made  like  Fig.  68,  except  that  the  exhaust  port  box  is 
made  thicker  than  the  steam  port  box.  In  small  size 
Corliss  Cylinders,  whole  core-boxes  are  sometimes  made, 
instead  of  half-core  boxes,  but  for  large  cylinders,  the 
cores  are  better  made  in  halves  both  for  convenience  of 
making  and  drying. 

The  box  for  coring  out  the  space  that  separates  the 
body  of  cylinder  from  the  exhaust  passage  may  be  made 
as  shown  in  Figs.  69  and  70.  Make  the  box  half  the 


PATTERN  MAKING.  35 

length  of  the  space.  (See  Figs.  46  and  47  at  T).  It 
will  be  seen  that  in  the  center  of  this  space,  there  is  a 
bridge ;  to  form  this,  a  loose  piece,  V,  Fig.  69,  half  the 
thickness  of  the  bridge,  is  made  and  fitted  in  the  end  of 
core-box,  and  as  there  must  be  two  right  and  two  left 
hand  cores,  changing  this  loose  piece  to  the  opposite  end 
will  give  it.  It  will  be  found  that  two  other  small  cores 
are  needed,  one  right-hand  and  one  left-hand,  to  core  out 
between  the  valve  chambers  and  cylinder  on  the  exhaust 
side.  These  small  cores  are  really  a  part  of  the  core  for 
coring  out  the  space  T,  in  Figs.  46  and  47,  and  might  be 
made  in  one  core,  like  the  core  print  shown  in  Fig.  51, 
but  I  think  it  is  easier  to  make  them  separately.  I  have 
not  shown  these  small  boxes,  as  they  will  be  readily  un- 
derstood without. 

Those  who  make  Corliss  Cylinders,  will  no  doubt  see 
the  advantage  of  making  their  patterns  to  slide  the  way 
I  have  shown,  as  the  pattern  can  be  easily  and  quickly 
changed  for  different  lengths  without  damaging  it. 


36  PATTERN  MAKING. 


FLY   WHEELS. 

DIFFERENT    STYLES. 

MAKING  fly  wheels  is  such  an  every-day  occurrence, 
that  it  seems  almost  unnecessary  to  say  anything  about 
it,  and  yet  I  think  something  might  be  said  that  might 
be  of  service  to  some  one. 

These  wheels  are  generally  cast  in  halves  and  bolted 
together,  except  in  the  case  of  a  fly  wheel  with  square 
rim,  in  which  case  it  is  generally  held  together  with 
wrought  iron  links,  shrunk  on  each  side  of  the  rim, 
as  shown  at  B,  in  Fig.  7 1 ,  or  sometimes  with  cotter-bolts, 
as  seen  in  Fig.  72. 

Fig.  71  is  part  of  a  square  rim  fly  wheel,  and  Fig.  73, 
that  of  a  band  wheel.  These  two  wheels  are  the  same 
diameter  and  of  about  the  same  weight.  Let  it  be  sup- 
posed each  is  designed  for  one  size  engine;  one  cus- 
tomer will  want  a  band  wheel  for  his  engine  and  another 
may  want  a  fly  wheel  with  square  rim,  and  because  of 
this,  it  is  proposed  to  make  the  same  arm  core-box,  with 
changes,  do  for  both  wheels.  Fig.  74  is  a  section  of  a 
mould  for  a  square  rim  wheel;  it  will  be  seen  that  the 
lower  and  outside  part  of  the  mould  are  formed  in  green 
sand,  the  segment  pattern  in  Fig.  75  being  used  for  that 
purpose.  A  step  is  made  in  this  segment  at  A,  so  that 
in  ramming  up,  the  green  sand  can  be  swept  off  level 


riff 


FLY    WHEELS. 


PA  TTERN  MAKING.  3  7 

with  it ;  this  makes  a  level  surface  on  the  inside,  on 
which  to  set  the  cope  cores  shown  in  Fig.  74.  A  pin  is 
put  through  the  end  that  fits  over  the  spindle  to  prevent 
it  from  getting  away% 

Fig.  76  is  a  section  of  the  mould  for  the  band  wheel ; 
the  inside  of  the  rim  is  all  rammed  up  in  green  sand,  us- 
ing segment  in  Fig.  77.  Two  views  of  the  core  box  for 
the  cope  of  square  rim  fly  wheels  are  shown  in  Figs.  78 
and  79,  and  the  length  of  the  box  is  from  B  to  Cy  in 
Fig.  71.  Dy  in  Fig.  78,  is  a  print  to  receive  the  core  for 
the  link,  and  as  there  are  to  be  two  right  and  two  left 
hand  cores,  it  must  be  changed  to  the  other  end  of  the 
box  for  opposite  hand  cores.  Two  views  of  the  core-box 
to  form  the  recesses  for  links  are  shown  between  the 
arms  of  Fig.  71,  and  cores  made  in  this  box  will  be  set 
in  print  D  and  also  in  a  print  on  the  segment. 

The  arm  core-box,  of  which  Figs.  80  and  8 1  are  two 
views,  should  be  made  very  strong,  as  it,  of  necessity, 
gets  very  rough  usage.  If  this  arm  box  is  built  the  way 
I  have  shown,  and  a  bolt  put  at  each  end  to  hold  the 
sides  together,  it  will  stand  a  considerable  amount  of 
rough  handling  before  coming  apart.  The  depth  of  the 
box  is  governed  by  the  distance  of  the  bolt  holes  in  the 
hub  from  the  center  of  arm ;  in  this  case  a,  b,  in  Fig.  82, 
is  the  depth ;  notice  also  the  box  is  made  longer  than  it 
is  needed  for  these  wheels.  This  is  done  that  it  may  be 
used  for  larger  wheels.  F,  in  Fig.  80,  is  made  loose  and 
is  laid  on  top  of  E,  which  is  also  loose ;  the  piece,  F,  is 
used  in  the  box  for  the  lower  half  of  arm  cores,  and 
for  the  upper  half  it  is  taken  out,  because  the  ends  of 
the  upper  arm  cores  must  lap  over  the  outer  edge  of 


38  PATTERN  MAKING. 

mould  in  the  same  manner  as  the  cope  cores  for  the 
rim.  (See  Fig.  74). 

For  the  band  wheel,  E  and  F  are  taken  out  and  the 
piece  in  Fig.  83  substituted.  The  end  of  the  box  is  then 
made  to  fit  the  inside  of  the  rim  for  band  wheel.  The 
length  from  center  of  hub  to  C,  in  Fig.  73,  corresponds 
with  the  distance  from  the  center  to  dotted  lines,  d,  e,  in 
Fig.  71.  The  three  pieces  marked  I,  2,  3,  are  used  to 
form  the  hub  in  arm  core-box.  In  Fig.  80,  /  is  a  half 
round  core  print  and  is  changed  to  the  opposite  side 
when  piece  numbered  3  is  used,  and  on  a  wheel  having 
six  arms  there  will  be  twelve  cores,  four  of  each  from 
the  pieces  I,  2,  3.  In  order  that  the  cope  cores  for  the 
rim  may  fit  against  the  sides  of  arm  cores,  two  wedge 
pieces,  g,  g,  are  fitted  against  the  sides  of  the  box,  mak- 
ing that  part  of  the  box  radial,  like  the  ends  of  the  box 
in  Fig.  78  are  made.  In  making  the  core-boxes,  a  clear- 
ance, (say  Ty  on  a  side)  should  be  allowed  where  the 
cores  fit  together  at  the  hub  and  rim ;  nine  times  out  of 
ten  the  moulder  has  to  file  these  cores  to  get  them  in 
position,  and  it  is  very  provoking  to  find,  when  the  last 
arm  core  is  being  set,  that  it  will  not  go  in  place  by  \" 
or  more. 

The  box,  in  Figs.  84  and  85,  is  to  complete  the  outer 
part  of  the  hub  on  each  side  of  line  a1  b'  in  Fig.  82.  h 
h  are  half  round  prints  that  will  match  /,  in  Fig.  80, 
when  cores  are  set. 

In  Fig.  74,  the  dotted  line,  M,  represents  the  surface 
of  a  level  bed  that  is  struck,  and  which  is  the  first 
thing  to  be  done  towards  making  the  mould,  but  before 
the  rim  can  be  made,  the  core  for  the  end  of  hub  must  be 


PATTERN  MAKING.  39 

located,  the  top  of  it  being  set  flush  with  the  bed,  M. 
This  core,  which  forms  part  of  the  hub,  will  be  a  guide 
to  set  the  lower  halves  of  arm  cores,  which  is  the  next 
thing  to  be  done.  After  this,  the  green  sand  part  of  the 
mould  is  rammed  up. 

The  band  wheel  is  made  in  much  the  same  manner, 
except  that  in  Fig.  76,  the  level  bed  is  struck  off  at  N 
and  the  arm  cores  blocked  up  to  the  proper  height,  and 
the  inside  of  the  rim  rammed  up. 

The  outside  of  the  band  wheel  can  be  formed  by  cores, 
like  P,  being  set  around.  When  making  the  segment, 
it  should  be  made  deeper  from  the  center  rib  to  N,  than 
it  is  to  the  cope  edge.  The  reason  for  this  is  to  allow 
for  the  piece  ;r,  that  is  made  on  the  core,  P,  x  being  a 
guide  for  setting  these  outer  cores,  so  as  to  give  the 
desired  thickness  to  rim. 


40  PATTERN  MAKING. 


ENGINE    FRAMES. 

HOW   TO    BUILD    THE    PATTERN    TO    SERVE    FOR   VARIOUS 
STROKES. 

The  type  of  frame  shown  in  Figs.  86  and  87  is  the 
same  as  used  on  the  Corliss  Engines  built  by  the  M.  C. 
Bullock  M'f'g.  Co.  Chicago,  and  is  considered  by 
mechanical  engineers  to  be  one  of  the  best.  Among  a 
number  of  ways,  it  may  be  difficult  to  decide  which  is  the 
best  way  to  construct  the  pattern  for  both  pattern  maker 
and  moulder,  for  in  all  such  jobs  the  pattern  making  and 
moulding  should  be  considered  together. 

Figs.  86,  87  and  88  are  three  views  of  this  frame  to  be 
built.  Fig.  87  is  shown  in  part  section  towards  the 
cylinder  end  of  frame  and  Fig.  88  is  a  cross-section 
showing  the  two  ribs  on  the  back.  The  pattern  is  to  be 
parted  on  line  AB,  Fig.  86,  and  to  mould  with  the  two 
ribs  down.  That  part  from  AB  to  <z,  can  be  lifted  with 
the  cope,  or  it  can  be  lifted  out  with  an  anchor  plate  and 
set  in  on  chaplets.  This  pattern  is  also  made  on  the 
same  principle  as  the  Corliss  Cylinder,  viz.,  to  slide.  By 
doing  this,  different  stroke  engines  can  be  made  with  the 
same  pattern.  Provision  for  this  change  must  be  made 
between  the  points  CD  and  DE,  in  Fig.  87,  but  the  part 
between  CD  will  only  be  made  to  slide,  while  the  length 
DE  can  be  changed  by  making  a  false  end  to  be  used 
for  stopping  off  to  the  length  required. 


Fiff.  86 


.  95, 


ENGINE    FRAMES. 


PATTERN  MAKING.  41 

We  start  the  pattern  by  building  up  two  half  round 
pieces,  one  to  be  larger  in  diameter  than  the  other ;  the 
smaller  will  be  the  diameter  of  the  inside  of  frame,  and 
will  therefore  serve  as  a  core  print,  and  the  larger  for  the 
outer  diameter  of  frame.  The  end  view  of  these  two 
parts  is  shown  in  Fig.  89,  their  length  is  from  b  to  c,  in 
Fig.  90.  Notice  that  on  one  end  of  the  larger  part,  it  is 
turned  down  to  the  same  diameter  as  the  small  part ;  this 
is  for  the  sliding  end  to  slide  on. 

Get  the  staves  out  for  building  the  larger  part,  and 
glue  on  an  extra  thickness,  forming  a  step  as  shown 
in  Fig.  91.  After  building  the  two  parts,  then  put  them 
together  and  turn,  but  as  one  part  is  larger  than  the 
other,  they  must  be  balanced  before  turning.  It  will  be 
seen  that  only  the  large  piece  and  the  end  of  the  smaller 
can  be  turned ;  the  remainder  of  the  smaller  piece  will 
have  to  be  planed  off.  Next  get  some  staves  out  like 
Fig.  92  to  make  the  sliding  end  H,  as  shown  in  Fig.  90. 
The  length  of  this  will  be  from  d  to  e.  The  flange  is 
glued  up  in  two  courses  and  fastened  around  this  sliding 
end,  H.  The  end  piece  that  receives  the  cylinder  should 
not  be  fastened  on  permanently,  as  one  frame  does  for 
two  or  more  sizes  of  cylinders,  so  that  instead  of  putting 
on  and  taking  off  a  lining,  it  is  better  to  make  two  or 
or  three  ends  for  changing. 

In  Fig.  90  the  pattern  is  shown  arranged  for  the  long- 
est stroke.  F  is  a  piece  bolted  on  the  end  at  b  to  give 
more  bearing  to  the  sliding  end,  H.  G  is  a  filling  piece 
built  up  in  three  courses  so  that  whenever  it  is  necessary 
to  shorten  the  frame,  these  two  pieces,  Fand  G,  can  be 
easily  .taken  out,  and  the  sliding  end  moved  up  and 


42  PATTERN  MAKING. 

screwed  again.  On  referring  to  Fig.  86  it  will  be  seen 
that  the  half  of  this  sliding  end  that  goes  around  the 
print  has  to  be  cut  out  circular,  like  the  front  end  in  Fig. 
87,  and  moulding  fitted  around  it.  In  making  the  mould- 
ing that  is  shown  around  the  edge  of  frame  it  should  be 
made  loose  from  the  print  as  far  as  o,  o,  thus  making 
strong  loose  pieces,  which  are  less  likely  to  be  broken. 

That  part  of  the  frame  that  covers  the  print  should 
now  be  fitted  on.  Having  the  round  part  of  frame  ready, 
get  the  ribs  built  on  the  back  by  first  planing  two  flat 
places  on  the  pattern  where  these  ribs  connect  to  the 
body,  wide  enough  to  take  a  piece  that  shall  form  the 
inner  and  outer  fillets  at  bottom  of  ribs ;  see  /,  Fig.  89. 

Fig.  93  shows  the  large  part  of  pattern;  it  is  laid  on  a 
plank  that  is  surfaced;  on  this  plank  a  center  line  is 
struck  as  a  guide  for  getting  the  other  part  of  frame  in 
line  with  the  body;  after  locating  the  center  line  on  pat- 
tern to  that  on  the  plank,  fix  a  temporary  piece,  K,  on  the 
end,  and  also  a  piece,  L,  the  same  height.  The  point,  M, 
shows  the  full  length  of  frame;  these  two  pieces,  K  and 
L,  are  temporary  supports  for  locating  the  straight  part 
of  frame.  On  these  supports  square  up  a  center  line 
from  the  plank.  The  straight  part,  A7,  should  be  flush 
with  the  two  pieces,  J'  J,  in  Fig.  89,  so  that  the  two  ribs 
can  have  a  straight  bearing  from  end  to  end. 

Now  is  the  best  time  to  bore  some  holes  through  the 
body  of  pattern  for  screwing  on  the  ribs.  It  will 
strengthen  the  pattern  to  glue  some  dowel  pins  through 
.the  body  and  down  into  the  ribs.  Having  put  this  part 
together  securely,  proceed  to  fit  in  the  bracket  at  P,  Fig. 
86,  remembering  that  the  inside  of  these  brackets  should 


PATTERN  MAKING.  43 

match  the  inside  of  frame.  The  two  lightening  holes  at 
the  back,  seen  in  Fig.  87,  are  cored.  These  cores  will 
serve  to  set  the  main  core  on. 

Having  completed  the  pattern,  make  a  half  skeleton 
core-box  for  the  inside  of  frame.  This  box  is  seen  in 
Fig.  94,  of  which  Fig.  95  is  a  cross-section.  First  build 
an  end  as  shown  at  Q,  and  though  but  one-half  be 
needed,  it  will  pay  to  build  a  full  circle  and  turn  it.  After 
cutting  it  in  halves,  take  one  and  screw  on  three  pieces, 
R,  S,  T.  To  R  and  S  screw  on  two  other  pieces,  U  and 
V,  for  the  guides.  When  the  core  is  being  made,  the 
screws  shown  are  taken  out,  thus  leaving  C/and  V  behind 
to  be  drawn  out  separately.  This  skeleton  box  is 
arranged  for  the  longest,  and  when  changing  length  of 
frame  all  the  change  that  the  core-box  will  require  is  to 
fit  a  piece  in  the  plain  end  to  the  desired  length. 


44  PATTERN  MAKING. 


SPUR    GEARS. 
AND    HOW   THE   TEETH    SHOULD    BE   MADE. 

There  are  so  many  ways  of  making  gear  patterns  that 
it  would  be  extraordinary  to  show  some  new  way.  The 
question  is,  which  is  the  best  way  to  make  a  gear  pattern 
that  will  stand  a  reasonable  amount  of  hammering,  not 
be  unnecessarily  expensive,  and  so  that  a  casting  when 
taken  from  it  will  run  smoothly.  Even  on  a  gear  pat- 
tern much  unnecessary  time  may  be  spent,  and  is  spent, 
that  does  not  make  the  pattern  any  better,  but  only  more 
expensive.  For  instance,  dovetailing  the  teeth  on  gears 
\\"  pitch  and  above,  is  unnecessary  work.  Much  time 
can  be  saved  by  fastening  the  teeth  on,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
96.  I  have  found  this  way  to  be  cheaper  and  by  no 
means  inferior  to  dovetailing. 

It  is  often  found  that  after  the  rim  has  been  turned 
and  the  teeth  dovetailed  on,  that  the  wheel  runs  out; 
there  is  no  doubt  that  the  cutting  of  the  rim  and  driving 
in  the  dovetails  have  to  do  with  this,  and  yet  there  are 
men  who  will  argue  that  a  gear  cannot  be  made  right 
unless  the  teeth  are  dovetailed  on. 

By  the  method  shown  in  Fig.  96,  we  have  the  advan- 
tage of  getting  a  fillet  at  the  root  of  the  tooth,  which 
cannot  be  well  made  on  one  that  is  dovetailed  on ;  in  this 
way  the  tooth  is  also  strengthened  and  made  better  for 
moulding,  which  means  a  better  casting. 

In  making  the  pattern,  the  blocks  for  the  teeth  should 


PATTERN  MAKING.  45 

be  sawed  out  first,  and  then  the  segments  for  building 
the  rim.  These  should  be  laid  aside  for  awhile  to  allow 
any  moisture  that  is  in  the  wood  to  dry  out,  and  though 
the  stock  may  be  considered  ever  so  dry,  it  is  better  to 
do  this,  and  the  importance  of  it  cannot  be  over-esti- 
mated in  gear  making. 

In  the  meantime  get  out  the  arms  and  put  them  to- 
gether ;  if  the  arms  are  of  an  oval  section,  now  is  the 
time  to  shape  them,  because  it  is  far  easier  to  do  this 
before  fixing  them  in  the  wheel. 

Fig.  97  represents  the  way  the  arms  may  be  put  to- 
gether. It  will  be  seen  that  tongues  are  inserted  in  the 
joints  where  the  arms  come  together.  The  grain  of 
these  tongues  should  not  run  parallel  with  these  joints, 
but  across. 

Before  building  on  the  last  two  courses  of  segments 
for  the  rim,  turn  the  rib  that  is  on  the  inside  (see  Fig.  98), 
then  build  the  arms  in  place,  taking  care  not  to  fit  them 
so  tightly  as  to  spring  the  rim — the  remaining  courses 
may  now  be  laid  up. 

In  Fig.  98  I  have  shown  a  cast  iron  flanged  bushing ; 
the  center  of  arms  is  turned  out  to  receive  it,  and  is  se- 
cured by  one  or  more  screws  in  each  arm.  I  would 
suggest  here  that  it  would  be  a  good  thing  to  have  a 
bushing  of  this  kind  in  nearly  all  wheels,  and  that  a  stan- 
dard sized  hole  be  adopted.  All  hubs  should  then  have 
a  projection  turned  on  them  to  fit  the  standard  size. 
There  would  be  but  little  trouble  then  in  changing  the 
hubs. 

After  turning  the  rim  for  the  wheel,  fit  on  the  blocks 
for  teeth,  and  screw  them  on  from  the  inside  of  rim  ;  then 


46  PATTERN  MAKING. 

fit  strips  between,  as  shown ;  take  care  not  to  allow  any 
glue  to  get  between  the  blocks  and  strips  when  nailing 
and  gluing  on  the  latter,  because  the  blocks  have  to  be 
taken  off  again  to  work  the  teeth  out. 

In  some  cases  it  may  be  better  to  screw  on  a  block 
and  fit  a  strip  the  right  width  against  the  side  of  block 
before  screwing  on  the  next  one,  but  this  is  purely  a 
matter  of  choice  with  the  pattern  maker. 

There  is  quite  a  variety  of  systems  employed  for  lay- 
ing out  the  profile  of  gear  teeth,  and  I  do  not  propose  to 
enter  into  any  discussion  regarding  the  merits  of  these 
different  systems;  but  much  of  the  controversy  is  so 
hair-splitting  that  in  practice  it  amounts  to  nothing  when 
applied  to  cast  gears.  In  some  shops  the  teeth  are  laid 
out  to  "  suit  the  eye."  Of  course  this  is  entirely  wrong, 
and,  though  such  gears  may  run,  there  will  be  much 
jarring  and  friction,  which  means  extra  wear  and  tear, 
and  loss  of  power. 

For  general  purposes  it  is  desirable  to  get  that  form 
of  tooth  that  shall  work  with  the  least  possible  friction, 
and  at  the  same  time  be  interchangeable  with  any  other 
of  the  same  pitch.  There  are  various  ways  of  getting 
this.  One  good  way  is  by  the  use  of  Prof.  Robinson's 
Templet  Odontograph.  Fig.  96  shows  how  to  apply  the 
Odontograph.  The  full  lines  show  it  in  position  for 
marking  the  face  of  tooth,  while  the  dotted  lines  show  it 
reversed  for  marking  the  root. 

To  locate  the  Odontograph  in  proper  position  for  the 
face  of  tooth,  "  setting "  tables  are  supplied  with  the 
instrument,  which  will  give  the  graduation  on  the  Odon- 
tograph to  set  to  pitch  line ;  but  this  graduation  is  not 


PATTERN  MAKING.  47 

all  that  is  needed  to  set  the  instrument  by.  In  Fig.  96, 
two  dotted  lines,  c  and  d,  are  drawn  from  the  center  of 
the  tooth,  forming  a  right  angle,  d  being  radial ;  now,  by 
setting  the  hollow  edge  of  the  Odontograph  even  with 
the  line  c,  and  using  the  graduation  referred  to.  the  loca- 
tion is  determined  for  the  face  of  tooth. 

For  the  flank  or  root,  two  lines,  a  and  by  are  drawn 
from  the  side  of  the  tooth,  also  forming  a  right  angle,  b 
being  radial ;  by  the  aid  of  the  line  a  and  the  "  setting  " 
for  the  flank,  the  Odontograph  may  now  be  set  for  the 
flank. 

When  a  setting  is  found  for  one  part  of  a  tooth,  the 
instrument  should  be  screwed  on  a  radius  rod,  which  is 
moved  around  a  center  pin  in  the  hub,  so  that  in  this 
Odontograph  we  have  a  ready-made  templet  for  the  teeth, 
and  are  not  troubled  with  getting  centers  for  the  points 
of  compasses  somewhere  outside  the  wheel  or  between 
the  teeth,  as  sometimes  happens. 

While  it  is  very  desirable  to  make  gears  that  are  inter- 
changeable, and  which  are  good  enough  for  all  ordinary 
machinery,  it  must  be  acknowledged  that  the  best  form 
of  tooth  cannot  be  made  by  any  interchangeable  system ; 
of  course,  I  am  speaking  now  of  the  epicycloidal  form  of 
tooth.  For  some  special  machinery,  where  it  is  neces- 
sary to  have  the  best  form  of  teeth,  without  regard  to 
their  being  interchangeable,  the  Odontograph  is  set 
differently  from  that  for  the  interchangeable.  Prof. 
Robinson  gives  extra  tables  for  this  purpose,  and  herein 
lies  the  value  of  the  Templet  Odontograph,  and  I  would 
recommend  its  being  used,  especially  for  coarse  pitches. 


48  PATTERN  MAKING: 


BEVEL   GEARS. 

THE   MANNER   OF   LAYING   THEM   OUT. 

Before  saying  anything  about  the  construction  of  these 
patterns,  some  explanation  should  be  made  about  the 
lines  that  are  required. 

Fig.  99  is  a  section  of  the  gear  and  pinion  to  be  made, 
and  gives  the  angle  at  which  the  two  shafts  are  set. 
Fig.  100  is  a  face  view  of  the  gear.  Bevel  gears  are 
usually  made  to  run  at  right  angles  to  each  other,  but 
when  occasion  requires,  they  can  be  made  to  run  at  any 
angle.  In  Fig.  99,  a  is  the  angle  that  is  chosen  ;  the  two 
lines  representing  this  angle  are  the  first  to  be  drawn,  for 
on  these  all  the  others  depend. 

Having  the  angle,  the  next  to  be  determined  are  the 
proportion  and  sizes  of  gear  and  pinion.  In  this  case,  I 
have  made  the  proportion  about  3  to  i,  pitch  il/2". 
The  gear  is  26.8"  diameter,  having  56  teeth,  the  pinion 
9.1 1 "  diameter,  with  19  teeth.  The  pinion  is  made  with 
an  odd  number  of  teeth,  so  that  the  teeth  shall  not  work 
into  the  same  ones  of  the  gear  at  every  revolution,  but 
shall  be  constantly  changing ;  the  odd  tooth  is  sometimes 
called  a  "  hunting  tooth." 

The  angle  and  the  dimensions  being  settled,  proceed 
by  drawing  the  line  b,  at  right  angles  to  c.  This  line  b 
is  the  diameter  and  the  pitch  line  of  the  gear.  From 
point  d  lay  off  e  at  right  angles  to  f;  this  will  be  the 


PATTERN  MAKING.  49 

pitch  line  and  diameter  of  the  pinion.  Draw  the  center 
line,  g,  parallel  to  /;  this  locates  the  center,  h,  towards 
which  all  the  teeth  must  converge.  Draw  i,  /,  k,  the 
center  lines  of  teeth,  to  h  ;  on  these  lines  lay  off  the  face 
of  the  wheels,  making  the  ends  of  teeth  square  with  the 
center  lines,  i,j,  k. 

The  section  of  the  rim,  arms,  and  hub,  are  now  easily 
drawn.  The  teeth  are  laid  out  on  larger  circles  than  the 
diameters  of  wheels,  the  centers  being  A  and  B.  These 
centers  are  obtained  by  producing  the  line  representing 
the  ends  of  teeth,  or,  in  other  words,  making  m  at  right 
angles  toy,  until  it  cuts  the  center  lines  of  gear  and  pin- 
ion at  A  and  B.  The  profile  of  the  teeth  must  be  made 
as  if  the  centers  of  the  gear  and  pinion  were  at  A  and  B. 
To  get  the  correct  thickness  of  the  tooth  on  the  inside, 
the  outer  thickness  must  be  laid  down  at  n,  running  the 
sides  toward  the  center,  h.  The  profile  of  the  inside  of 
teeth  is  made  after  the  same  manner  as  the  outside. 
Having  described  the  method  of  drawing  out  these 
gears,  we  can  pass  to  the  construction  of  the  patterns. 

The  rim  is  built  up  on  a  face-plate  in  a  manner  shown 
in  Fig.  101,  and  when  the  work  is  thoroughly  dry,  the 
inside  should  be  turned,  getting  in  around  at  P  as  far  as 
possible.  The  arms  are  fitted  in  the  wheel  as  shown  in 
Fig.  102,  which  should  be  done  before  taking  the  rim  off 
the  face-plate.  There  is  a  thickness  of  about  y^"  put  on 
each  side  of  the  arms  to  hold  them  together,  also  answer- 
ing for  fillets  ;  see  Fig.  103.  Tongues  should  be  inserted 
at  the  joints  where  the  arms  join  at  the  center,  thus 
making,  with  the  pieces  on  either  side,  a  strong  job.  It 
is  the  intention  to  leave  the  hub  and  ribs,  DD>  in  Fig. 


5O  PATTERN  MAKING. 

99,  loose,  so  that  they  can  be  lifted  with  the  cope,  thus 
preventing  the  mould  from  tearing  down.  After  fitting 
in  the  arms,  the  rim  is  chucked,  as  seen  in  Fig.  104,  and 
finished  on  the  outside  ready  for  putting  on  the  teeth.  I 
have  already  described  the  manner  in  which  gear  teeth 
are  put  on  spur  gears,  and  these  should  be  put  on  in  a 
similar  way. 

Pinions  may  be  built  up  hollow  or  solid ;  in  this  case 
it  is  not  large  enough  to  build  hollow,  so  pieces  must  be 
glued  together  with  the  grain  of  the  wood  running  with 
the  axis  of  pinion,  and  large  enough  to  allow  the  teeth 
to  be  cut  out  of  same.  For  larger  pinions,  the  pieces 
can  be  glued  around  the  periphery,  the  grain  of  wood 
running  the  same  way  as  the  teeth,  then  turned  off,  and 
the  teeth  cut'  as  if  cutting  them  from  the  solid,  as  before. 


PA  TTERN  MAKING.  5 1 


HOW   TO   LAY  OUT   THE   THREAD   OF   A   WORM 
FOR   THE   PATTERN. 

LET  us  suppose  the  pattern  for  a  worm  is  to  be  made 
4"  diameter,  with  a  single  right-hand  thread  I  y^"  pitch. 

First,  turn  the  pattern — which  should  be  in  halves — 
to  the  diameter,  4",  and  to  the  required  length,  say  6", 
see  Fig.  106.  Do  not  destroy  the  centers,  because  after 
the  threads  are  cut,  the  pattern  can  be  returned  to  the 
lathe,  and  the  threads  sand-papered  on  a  slow  speed ;  a 
much  better  job  can  be  done  at  sand-papering  this  way 
than  otherwise.  After  turning  the  pattern,  wrap  a  piece 
of  paper  around  it  and  cut  to  the  exact  length  of  circum- 
ference, and  also  the  length  of  pattern.  After  doing  this, 
take  the  paper  off  and  lay  it  flat,  as  shown  in  Fig.  105. 

The  full  lines  which  are  laid  off  parallel  to  each  other, 
and  1 2^"  apart,  represent  the  center  line  of  thread,  or 
pitch.  After  making  these  lines,  take  the  paper  and 
wrap  it  around  the  pattern  again,  and  it  will  be  found 
that  the  end  marked  I  will  meet  the  end  marked  2,  and 
4  will  meet  3,  and  5  will  meet  6,  and  so  on,  thus  making 
one  continuous  line  when  wrapped  on  the  pattern ;  but 
before  gluing  the  paper  to  the  pattern,  mark  the  thick- 
ness of  the  thread.  Be  careful  when  you  have  a  right- 
hand  worm  to  make,  that  you  do  not  make  it  left-hand 
by  running  the  lines  the  wrong  way;  I  have  seen  this 
done  more  than  once.  If  it  is  to  be  a  right-hand  thread, 


52  PATTERN  MAKING, 

the  lines  should  run  down  towards  the  left-hand,  as  seen 
in  Fig.  105.  If  it  is  to  be  a  left-hand,  they  should  run 
down  towards  the  right. 

When  a  double  thread  is  required,  instead  of  starting 
to  draw  the  lines  from  the  first  division  to  the  corner, 
start  from  the  second,  as  shown  by  dotted  lines.  This 
will  give  a  double  thread,  and,  in  fact,  any  number  of 
threads  can  be  obtained  this  way.  If  the  angle  of  the 
thread  is  increased  twice,  two  threads  are  the  result ;  if 
three  times,  three  threads,  and  so  on  until  the  number  of 
threads  are  so  many,  and  the  angle  so  great,  that  we 
cease  to  call  it  a  worm  and  begin  to  name  it  a  spiral 
gear. 

It  will  probably  occur  to  some  minds  that  if  glue  be 
used  to  fasten  this  paper  to  the  pattern,  the  moisture  of 
the  glue  will  stretch  it,  so  as  to  make  the  ends  that  meet 
lap  over ;  this  can  be  avoided  and  the  ends  need  not  be 
allowed  to  lap  over,  if  a  little  care  is  exercised.  Instead 
of  spreading  the  glue  over  all  the  surface  of  the  paper, 
put  a  little  on  the  two  ends  that  join,  and  also  here  and 
there  on  the  surface  ;  then  lay  the  paper  flat  and  roll  the 
pattern  carefully  on  it,  the  pattern  gathering  up  the 
paper  around  it  as  it  is  rolled.  If  a  spiral  gear  is  to  be 
laid  out  this  way — and  it  can  be — the  two  ends  of  the 
paper  should  meet  exactly. 


PA  TTERN  MAKING.  5  3 


WORM  WHEELS. 

THE  WAY  TO  GET  THE  ANGLE  OF  TEETH,  AND  THE  MAN- 
NER OF  FASTENING  THEM  ON. 

A  WORM-WHEEL  pattern  is  not  an  easy  thing  to  make 
by  any  means ;  it  is  that  kind  of  a  job  on  which  a  good 
man  is  apt  to  go  astray. 

Figs.  107  and  108  represent  a  wheel  to  be  made;  the 
worm  is  shown  in  gear,  and  as  I  have  already  referred  to 
it,  I  will  confine  my  remarks  to  the  wheel  pattern,  except 
that  reference  will  have  to  be  made  to  the  angle  of 
thread  of  worm. 

The  dimensions  are  the  first  thing  to  be  determined. 
Let  the  wheel  be  21^"  diameter,  i^"  pitch,  39  teeth, 
form  of  tooth,  involute,  laid  out  with  the  aid  of  Prof. 
Willis'  Odontograph. 

Pattern  makers  generally  shape  the  thread  of  a  worm 
pattern  the  same  as  the  tooth  of  the  gear  in  which  it  is 
to  work ;  but  the  sides  of  the  thread  should  be  straight, 
at  an  angle  of  75  degrees  with  the  axis  of  the  worm. 
This  is  correct  for  an  involute,  because  that  is  what  a  rack 
tooth  would  be,  and  the  worm  is  similar  to  the  rack  in 
this  case.  A  section  of  the  wheel  pattern  is  shown  in 
Fig.  109 ;  the  rim  is  first  built  up  and  turned  straight  on 
the  outside,  the  pattern  being  parted  on  line  AB. 

A  little  thought  will  have  to  be  exercised  in  building 
and  turning  the  rim  so  as  not  to  do  any  unnecessary 
chucking,  In  the  first  place,  the  face  plate  for  turning  it 


54  PATTERN  MAKING. 

should  be  about  the  same  diameter  as  the  rim,  so  as  to 
allow  the  ends  of  the  teeth  to  be  turned  off.  Lay  each 
half  up  separately,  with  the  parting  joint  of  pattern  against 
the  face  plate,  rough  off  the  outside  and  finish  the  inside 
of  both  halves,  care  being  taken  to  turn  the  inside  of  both 
halves  the  same  diameter,  because  of  the  chucking. 
This  done,  the  rings  are  chucked  by  the  inside,  and,  to 
do  this,  segments  are  nailed  on  the  face  plate.  The  out- 
side of  the  rim  should  now  be  finished  to  the  size  re- 
quired, and  blocks  for  the  teeth  fitted  on  the  periphery. 
These  blocks  should  be  fitted  and  glued  on  with  the 
grain  of  the  wood  running  at  the  same  angle  that  the 
teeth  are  to  be  at  the  pitch  line,  the  width  of  each  block 
being  the  same  as  the  pitch.  The  way  to  get  the  angle 
is  shown  in  Fig.  no,  y  representing  the  angle  of  tooth 
at  the  pitch  line.  These  blocks  are  fastened  on  before 
taking  the  first  half  out  of  the  lathe,  and  a  groove  turned 
on  the  joint  for  locating  the  halves  concentric  with  one 
another.  When  the  second  half  is  chucked  and  turned 
and  the  blocks  for  teeth  fixed  on,  as  in  the  case  of  the 
first  half,  a  projection  is  turned  on  the  joint  of  it  to  fit 
the  groove  on  the  joint  of  the  other.  The  two  halves 
should  now  be  put  together,  and  the  blocks  for  the  teeth 
turned  off  on  the  ends,  and  finished,  as  seen  in  section 
Fig.  109.  A  good  surface  for  marking  out  the  teeth 
may  be  made  by  varnishing  these  blocks  with  yellow 
varnish. 

In  Fig.  107,  a  part  of  the  pattern  is  shown  cut  through 
line  AB,  Fig.  109;  the  other  part,  with  the  three  teeth 
represents  the  outside  and  ends  of  the  teeth.  To  be  the- 
oretically correct  the  teeth  should  be  thinner  on  the  ends 


PATTERN  MAKING,  55 

than  on  the  parting  line,  AB,  but  in  practice,  this  is  not 
generally  considered,  because  it  would  make  it  difficult 
to  draw  the  pattern  if  made  that  way ;  the  teeth  in  cast 
gears  are  therefore  made  the  same  thickness  on  the  line 
£7  as  on  the  pitch  line  D  in  Fig.  107. 

The  Odontograph  for  locating  a  center  for  marking  out 
the  teeth  is  shown  at  R ;  the  instrument  is  nothing  more 
than  an  angle  of  75°  divided  off  in  y^'f  spaces  on  one  side 
for  4"  in  length,  the  J^"  spaces  being  subdivided.  Zero 
on  the  instrument  is  placed  at  a  point  on  the  pitch  line, 
and  the  plain  side  is  set  to  a  radial  line;  the  radius  of 
the  gear  is  then  read  off  on  the  graduated  side,  which 
will  locate  a  center  from  which  to  strike  the  tooth.  In 
this  case,  the  wheel  being  21^"  diameter,  the  radius  is 
io^j"  ;  read  off  1 1,  which  is  near  enough  for  all  practi- 
cal purposes. 

To  lay  out  the  teeth  on  the  pattern  at  the  proper 
angle,  space  off  half  the  pitch  from  one  of  the  joints  of 
the  blocks,  on  the  pitch  line  each  side  of  the  wheel.  If 
these  pieces  for  the  teeth  have  been  made  to  the  angle  of 
j/,  Fig.  no,  these  points  on  each  side  will  be  the  starting 
points  for  dividing  the  teeth,  and  will  give  the  angle  of 
tooth. 

If  the  teeth  are  marked  out  also  on  the  joint  of  one- 
half  of  the  pattern,  and  trimmed  down  to  the  line,  it  will 
be  an  additional  guide  to  cut  the  teeth  by. 

The  fact  of  the  arms  of  the  pattern  being  in  halves 
makes  them  thin,  and  therefore  weak  ;  but  if  the  joints 
in  the  center  be  tongued,  and  the  hub  on  each  side  glued 
and  screwed  to  the  arms,  it  will  strengthen  them  consid- 
erably. 


56  PATTERN  MAKING. 


SWEEPING   STRAIGHT  WINDING   DRUMS. 

FIG.  ill  shows  one  way  of  sweeping  up  hoisting 
drums.  The  usual  way  is  to  allow  one  or  two  fingers 
for  sweeping  the  groove  to  travel  the  whole  length  of 
drum  by  means  of  a  nut  running  on  a  long  screw.  It 
will  be  seen  that  the  long  screw  is  discarded  and  that 
the  sweep  is  made  the  whole  length  that  the  drum  is  to 
be.  This  sweep  is  required  to  travel  up  and  down  only 
one  thread,  which  will  make  a  continuous  thread,  the 
same  as  if  two  fingers  traveled  the  whole  length  by  means 
of  the  screw.  The  set  screws,  E  and  F,  are  free  from 
the  spindle,  so  that  the  sweep  may  rise  and  fall  as  it  is 
pulled  around.  It  rises  by  means  of  a  pinplate,  B,  bolted 
to  the  bottom  of  the  sweep,  and  which  works  in  a  spiral 
groove  cut  in  the  hub,  A ;  this  groove  must  be  cut  the 
same  pitch  that  the  groove  of  drum  is  intended  to  be. 

Figs.  1 1 2  and  1 1 3  are  other  views  of  A  and  B.  The 
spindle  is  kept  from  turning  by  the  set  screw,  H,  being 
set  against  it;  at  the  same  time,  the  projection  on  the 
hub,  A,  fits  into  the  slot  G,  in  Fig.  1 12. 

After  sweeping  the  grooved  part  of  drum,  the  part  C 
of  the  sweep  may  be  taken  off  and  a  piece,  like  D,  fas- 
tened to  the  upper  cross-piece ;  this  is  for  striking  the 
flange  of  drum  and  a  step  around  the  top  for  a  guide 
by  which  to  set  the  cope.  While  sweeping  the  groove 
the  spindle  remains  stationary,  but  when  sweeping  this 


SWEEPING    DRUMS. 


Fig.  1O5. 


Fig.  106. 


How  to  yet  the  Lines  for  Thread  of  a  Worm 


WORM    WHEEL    PATTERN, 


PATTERN  MAKING.  57 

flange  and  step,  it  must  revolve  with  the  sweep ;  to  do 
this,  the  set  screws,  E  and  F,  must  be  tightened,  the  pin- 
plate,  B,  taken  off  the  sweep,  and  the  set  screw,  H,  loos- 
ened ;  this  will  allow  the  spindle  to  revolve  in  its  taper 
socket  in  the  ordinary  way. 

For  drums  over  6  ft.  in  diameter,  it  will  be  found 
necessary  to  support  the  top  of  the  spindle  with  a  tem- 
porary cross-beam,  and  also,  to  have  a  counterbalance 
weight  to  help  the  rising  of  the  sweep  as  it  is  pulled 
around. 


58  PATTERN  MAKING. 


MAKING   WINDING   DRUMS  FROM   PATTERNS. 

METHOD    OF    CUTTING    THE    GROOVE. 

FIG.  1 14  shows  a  section  of  a  Grooved  Winding  Drum 
about  3  ft.  diameter,  and  Fig.  1 1 5  shows  the  way  pat- 
tern may  be  constructed. 

D  is  a  4x4"  stick;  on  it  three  discs,  A,  P,  C,  are 
fastened  and  screwed  by  brackets.  Lagging  to  form  the 
shell  is  screwed  around  these  discs,  while  the  spider  in 
the  end  is  loose  and  just  laid  on  disc  A,  so  that  it  can  be 
lifted  with  the  cope.  C  should  be  made  about  f "  smaller 
in  diameter  than  A,  to  allow  the  core,  shown  in  Fig. 
114,  to  be  easily  lifted;  this  f"  taper  on  the  drum  will 
not  be  noticeable  when  cast,  neither  does  it  affect  any- 
thing. 

Fig.  116  represents  a  piece  of  the  lagging  that  is 
screwed  on  the  discs,  A,  B,  C.  Fig.  1 1 7  is  given  to 
show  how  to  get  the  proper  angle  of  the  groove;  the 
distance,  x,  is  the  circumference,  a  the  pitch,  and  y  the 
angle  that  the  grooves  are  to  be  cut.  Fasten  two  pieces 
together  in  the  form  of  a  T  square,  like  Fig.  118,  for 
marking  the  lines  on  Fig.  1 16,  and  let  the  blade  be  cir- 
cular, to  fit  the  face  of  the  lagging.  Also  make  a 
templet  the  same  length  and  thickness  of  the  drum,  to 
mark  off  the  grooves  on  the  edge  of  lagging. 

As  the  outside  is  being  rammed  up,  the  screws  that 
hold  the  lagging  must  be  taken  out,  so  as  to  allow  A,  B, 


Cast  Iron  _,. 

(Ring  Pattern    r^\    •*nV 


PATTERN    FOR    WINDING    DRUM. 


PATTERN  MAKING.  59 

Cy  and  D  to  be  removed  after  the  cope  is  lifted.  Previ- 
ous to  ramming  up  the  core,  a  flange,  E,  Fig.  114,  is 
placed  in  the  bottom  of  the  mould ;  this  flange  is  made 
in  segments  and  is  for  bolting  the  brake  wheel  to  the 
drum.  After  the  inside  is  rammed  up  and  lifted  out, 
this  flange,  Ey  and  the  lagging  are  drawn  in  and  the 
groove  finished  off  and  the  skin  dried. 

Some  may  say  that  a  pattern  such  as  I  have  described 
is  very  costly ;  in  reply  I  would  say  that  it  would  soon 
pay  for  itself  by  the  difference  in  the  cost  of  sweeping 
and  moulding,  but  drums  of  larger  diameter  should  be 
swept  up,  as  they  generally  are. 


60  PATTERN  MAKING. 


MAKING   SHEAVES   FROM   CORE-BOXES. 

I  PROPOSE  to  give  under  this  head  some  ideas  for 
making  sheaves  of  various  kinds,  and  will  first  give  the 
way  for  making  large  ones  from  core-boxes. 

The  style  of  sheaves,  shown  with  cast  arms,  is  that 
which  is  used  to  transmit  power  on  cable  car  roads.  The 
groove  is  made  to  receive  segments  that  are  bolted  on, 
and  of  which  more  will  be  said  further  on.  The  right 
hand  side  of  Fig.  120  shows  one  arm  and  a  portion  of 
the  rim ;  as  will  be  seen,  this  sheave  is  in  halves,  and 
arranged  for  bolting  together ;  joint  E  is  to  be  finished 
so  that  stock  for  planing  must  be  allowed  at  E.  In  Fig. 
121  two  sections  are  shown ;  that  on  the  right  is  a  sec- 
tional view  of  the  mould  through  the  arm-core,  ABy  and 
that  on  the  left  through  CD.  These  two  sections  repre- 
sent the  mould  closed,  but  in  Fig.  1 20  I  have  shown  the 
mould  open,  with  the  arms,  F  and  G,  set.  The  lower 
part  of  rim  is  made  in  green  sand,  a  segment  pattern 
being  used  to  form  it.  This  segment  pattern  is  shown 
to  the  left  in  Fig.  120,  H  being  a  section  of  it.  Two 
battens,  a,  b,  are  screwed  on,  which  run  to  the  center, 
the  ends  being  cut  to  fit  around  the  spindle. 

The  lugs  at  the  joint,  for  bolting  the  rim  together, 
must  be  right  and  left  hand  on  the  segment  pattern, 
using  one  when  starting  and  the  other  when  finishing. 
These  lugs  are  screwed  on  temporarily,  Care  must  be 


3>ICD  KOHJ  S3AV3HS  OKIXYTC 


PA  TTERN  MAKING.  6 1 

taken  to  divide  the  arms  off  accurately  on  a  level  bed. 
After  marking  the  center  line  on  the  bed  for  each  arm, 
move  the  segment  around  on  the  spindle  and  apply  the 
center  line  of  the  core  print  for  the  arm  core  to  the  center 
lines  on  the  bed,  and,  as  lines  on  sand  soon  disappear, 
it  will  be  well  to  drive  a  small  stake  on  each  side  of  the 
print  for  arm  core,  so  that,  when  moving  the  segment  to 
each  division,  the  arm  print  can  be  set  down  between  the 
stakes,  and  thus  insure  accuracy.  It  is  particularly  nec- 
essary to  divide  these  arms  off  equally,  so  that  the  bolt- 
holes  shall  match  those  in  the  segments  that  go  in  the 
groove,  for  it  is  the  intention  that  all  the  holes,  both  for 
bolting  together  the  sheave  and  segments,  shall  be  cast 
in,  and  to  compensate  for  any  difference  that  may  occur, 
the  holes  are  made  a  little  long  in  the  rim  and  lugs,  as 
seen  at_/i  Fig.  120. 

Fig.  122  is  the  arm  core-box,  and  I  will  again  remind 
the  pattern  maker  that  it  should  be  made  strong,  or  it 
will  come  apart,  as  I  have  often  seen,  and  then  there  is 
trouble  about  the  cores  not  coming  together  at  the  cen- 
ter as  they  should. 

Fig.  123  shows  the  way  some  pattern  makers  construct 
these  large  arm  core-boxes ;  the  result  is,  they  are 
rammed  apart,  as  shown,  and  then  the  poor  core  maker  is 
accused  of  using  the  core-box  roughly.  Just  as  in  the 
case  of  arm  box  for  fly-wheels,  so  this  box  should  be 
made  a  little  longer  than  is  necessary  for  the  present  job, 
so  that  the  end,  Kt  can  be  moved  out  and  the  arm  length- 
ened for  a  larger  wheel  whenever  it  may  be  needed. 
The  interchangeable  pieces,  i,  2,  3,  form  the  hub. 

Fig.  124  is  the  core-box  from  which  the  cope  cores,  L, 


62  PATTERN  MAKING, 

in  Fig.  121,  are  made.  The  same  lugs,/,  that  are  used 
on  the  segment  pattern,  can  be  used  in  this  box  for  two 
cores,  using  one  right  hand  and  one  left  hand.  The  box 
is  shown  arranged  for  the  first  core  on  the  left.  M  is 
a  loose  piece  half  the  width  of  the  core  print  that  receives 
the  arm  core.  It  will  be  seen  that  this  box  is  made 
longer  than  the  core  is  needed.  This  is  to  enable  us  to 
change  ends  with  the  loose  piece,  M,  when  making  a 
core  the  opposite  hand.  The  length  of  this  box  is  from 
the  center  of  the  arm  to  the  joint  E,  but  the  \"  stock, 
which  is  allowed  for  planing  the  joint  at  E,  makes  the 
box  J"  longer  than  the  eighth  part  of  the  half  sheave, 
and  therefore  J"  too  long  for  the  other  cores,  so  that  a 
J"  piece  must  be  put  in  the  end  of  the  box  after  making 
two  cores  with  the  lug,/. 

Fig.  125  is  the  box  for  the  groove  cores.  The  section 
of  this  box  shows  it  arranged  for  making  the  cores  in 
two  parts,  to  be  pasted  together  at  o  o,  Fig.  121.  The 
cope  part  of  this  core  is  a  little  different  from  the  bottom 
part;  a  loose  piece,  g,  in  Fig.  125,  is  fitted  in  the  bottom 
of  the  box,  to  be  left  in  for  the  bottom  part  of  core  and 
taken  out  for  the  cope  part.  The  groove  that  this  core 
is  to  form  is  turned  on  the  two  sides,  but  not  in  the  bot- 
tom ;  tool  clearance  should  therefore  be  allowed  on  each 
side  in  the  bottom  to  accommodate  the  turning,  This 
is  seen  in  the  section  at  N. 

I  have  not  shown  any  core-box  for  the  slab  core,  /,  as 
it  is  nothing  but  a  plain  core,  and  the  box  is  simple  and 
needs  no  explanation  as  to  making  it. 

Fig.  1 26  is  the  core-box  for  the  hub.  It  is  made  the 
depth  of  P,  in  Fig,  121.  This  view  gives  all  the  explan- 


Grccn.Sand- 


Fig.  129 

MAKING    SHEAVES    FROM    CORE    BOXES. 


PATTERN  MAKING.  63 

ation  that  is  necessary  as  to  the  way  to  make  it.  The 
faces,  £,  of  the  hub  and  lugs  are  covered  with  slab  cores. 

Another  type  of  sheaves  is  shown  in  Fig.  127.  This 
style  can  be  made  considerably  cheaper  than  those  I 
have  already  described.  Dispensing  with  the  groove 
that  receives  the  segments  makes  it  very  simple  to 
mould,  and  also  easier  for  turning  the  periphery  of  cast- 
ing. The  plan  for  forming  the  arms  and  the  hub  is  the 
same  here  as  in  Fig.  120.  The  segment  pattern  for 
making  the  green  sand  part  of  mould  is  seen  in  Fig.  128, 
of  which  Fig.  129  is  an  end  view.  The  pieces  that  run 
to  the  center  are  not  screwed  on  top  of  segment  in  the 
usual  way,  but  on  the  step  that  is  made  in  the  segment 
at  a,  Fig.  129.  By  making  it  in  this  way,  a  large  part 
of  the  rim  can  be  made  in  green  sand,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
130. 

The  core-box  for  core  A,  is  made  in  very  much  the 
same  way  as  in  Fig.  124.  The  segment  that  is  bolted 
on  the  periphery  of  this  sheave  is  moulded  edgewise; 
there  are  chipping  strips  on  the  inside  at  b,  c,  d,  e,  Fig. 
131  ;  on  the  side,/",  stock  for  planing  is  allowed,  so  that 
the  segment  may  set  straight  against  the  flange  of  the 
wheel. 

I  once  had  a  little  experience  with  some  of  these  seg- 
ments. When  the  first  lot  of  those  in  Fig.  131  were 
being  fitted  on  the  wheel,  it  was  found  they  had  straight- 
ened somewhat,  just  as  represented  by  the  dotted  lines ; 
it  was  evident  that  these  segments  straightened  in  cool- 
ing, the  two  thin  flanges,  x  x,  cooling  first  and  pulling  the 
casting  out  of  its  true  circle ;  in  the  next,  I  took  care  to 
allow  for  this  when  making  the  pattern. 


64  PATTERN  MAKING. 

.  When  there  is  a  number  of  these  sheaves  to  make, 
instead  of  closing  the  top  with  slab  cores,  as  I  have 
shown,  it  would  pay  to  make  a  cast  iron  half  ring  with 
which  to  cover  the  top.  This  half  ring  should  have  a 
number  of  spikes  on  one  side,  and  on  it  a  thick  coat  of 
loam,  struck  off  level,  dried,  and  blacked. 


132. 


\Fig.  135. 


Fig.  137. 
1 


Fig.  134. 


Fig.  136. 


MAKING  SHEAVES   FROM   PATTERNS. 


PATTERN  MAKING.  65 


MAKING   SHEAVES   FROM   PATTERNS. 

THERE  is  not  much  scheming  required  to  make  a  pat- 
tern for  a  sheave,  such  as  shown  in  Fig.  132,  and  yet,  to 
show  the  way  it  should  be  made,  may  not  be  entirely 
out  of  place  here,  as  I  want  to  bring  in  a  few  points  that 
have  riot  hitherto  been  considered. 

I  have  said  that  into  the  groove  of  this  style  of  sheave 
are  bolted  segments  that  take  the  cable.  The  advantage 
of  this  arrangement  is  evident,  as  it  allows  the  segments 
to  be  renewed  when  worn  out.  I  have  shown  in  Fig. 
132  a  part  of  the  rim  and  a  cross-section  of  the  sheave; 
this  shows  the  manner  of  bolting  the  segments  to  the 
sheave.  The  groove,  into  which  the  segments  are  bolted, 
is  to  be  turned,  but  the  groove  of  the  segment  is  left 
rough. 

Chipping  pieces  are  cast  on  each  side  of  the  segment, 
as  seen  at  a,  b,  c,  d,  Fig.  133,  because  it  is  intended  that 
the  segment  shall  not  bear  in  the  bottom  of  the  groove, 
but  only  on  the.  chipping-  pieces  by  the  sides,  and  at  e  e ; 
see  cross-section,  Fig.  132. 

Fig.  133  shows  the  pattern  of  the  segment,  and  is 
made  to  be  moulded  on  the  edge,  the  groove  being  in 
the  cope ;  it  is  desired  to  cast  the  bolt-holes,  and  care 
must  be  taken  in  spacing  them  off,  because  they  are 
wanted  to  match  those  in  the  sheave,  which  are  also  cast 
in.  I  have  marked  the  core  prints  for  these  holes ;  the 
bottom  print  is  made  something  like  the  cope  print — 


66  PATTERN  MAKING. 

oblong — as  shown  at/;  this  is  done  in  order  that  the 
core  may  stand  in  the  mould  more  securely  while  the 
cope  is  being  closed.  If  a  round  print  were  used  just 
the  size  of  holes,  the  cores  would  be  top-heavy  and  diffi- 
cult to  locate  in  the  mould,  hence  the  necessity  of  mak- 
ing the  bottom  print  as  shown.  The  core-box  for  this 
bolt-hole  should  be  made  as  shown  in  Fig.  1 34. 

It  is  understood  that  these  sheaves  are  bolted  together 
in  halves,  so  that  in  making  a  pattern,  only  one-half  will 
be  required.  Proceed  by  building  up  and  turning  a 
whole  ring,  of  which  Fig.  135  shall  be  the  section ;  A  is 
the  print  for  carrying  the  groove  cores.  After  turning 
the  ring,  cut  a  stick  the  exact  length  of  the  inside  diam- 
eter— this  will  be  a  gauge  to  see  whether  the  ring  has 
sprung  after  being  cut  in  two,  and,  if  it  has,  to  bring  it 
back  to  the  gauge  when  fastening  in  the  arms.  After 
sawing  the  ring  in  two,  glue  and  screw  it  together 
strongly,  as  seen  in  Fig.  1 36 ;  but  before  doing  so,  it 
must  be  remembered,  as  before,  that  stock  for  planing 
must  be  allowed  at  the  joints  where  the  ring  is  bolted 
together,  so  that  the  pattern  shall  be  \"  over  the  half  cir- 
cle. In  order  that  this  may  be,  the  ring  should  not  be 
cut  exactly  in  halves,  but  \"  one  side  of  the  center,  mak- 
ing one  part  about  \n  short,  not  reckoning  anything  for 
saw  cut — with  saw  cut  would  probably  be  £"  short. 
Now,  if  after  sawing  the  ring,  two  of  the  ends  be  brought 
together,  it  will  only  be  necessary  to  build  on  one  end  of 
one  of  the  sections.  Having  done  this,  the  ring  is  ready 
to  have  the  arms  fitted  in,  which  should  be  done  by 
letting  them  in  the  rim,  as  represented  by  dotted  lines  at 
AB,  Fig.  132. 


PATTERN  MAKING.  6? 

Care  must  be  taken  not  to  fit  the  arms  in  so  tightly  as 
to  spring  the  ring  out  of  round ;  this  can  be  very  easily 
done.  After  locating  the  arms,  bore  two  }"  holes  from 
the  outside  of  ring  into  each  arm,  and  glue  in  hard  wood 
dowel  pins ;  this  will  make  a  strong  job.  The  small 
bosses,  of  which  one  is  shown  at  C,  Fig.  132,  are  turned 
and  sawed  out  with  a  narrow  band-saw  to  fit  over  the 
rim.  This  is  done  by  inserting  each  boss  in  a  block 
with  a  hole  through  it  the  size  of  the  boss ;  two  views  of 
this  block  are  seen  in  Fig.  137.  The  boss  is  fixed  in 
the  hole  D,  and  sawed  to  the  shape  of  the  inner  part  of 
rim.  Of  course,  the  block  is  fitted  over  the  rim  first,  to 
act  as  a  guide  for  sawing  them  out. 

The  core-box  for  the  groove  need  not  be  made  with 
.loose  piece  in  the  bottom,  as  in  case  of  forming  these 
sheaves  with  cores,  because  the  cope  closes  down  on  top 
of  print,  and  not  on  the  dotted  line,  Fig.  1 36. 


68  PATTERN  MAKING. 


SHEAVES   WITH   WROUGHT   IRON   ARMS. 

AN    ORIGINAL    WAY    OF    MAKING    THE    HUB. 

THE  style  of  sheave  shown  in  Fig.  138  is  used  exten- 
sively in  mines  for  carrying  rope;  the  arms,  which 
spread  on  either  side,  act  like  stay-rods  to  the  rim, 
making  it  very  rigid  sidewise,  at  the  same  time  forming 
altogether,  a  light,  but  strong,  sheave. 

To  the  left  of  Fig.  138  is  shown  a  section  of  the  rim 
with  wrought  iron  arms  cast  into  it ;  to  the  right,  a  sec- 
tion of  the  cores  which  form  the  rim ;  and  at  the  center,  a 
section  of  the  cores  forming  the  hub. 

The  lower  part  of  the  mould  is  formed  with  green 
sand,  the  segment  shown  in  Fig.  139  being  swung 
around  from  the  center,  C.  The  cope  is  formed  with 
cores  made  from  box  shown  in  Fig.  140.  Fig.  141  is  a 
cross-section  of  this  box. 

While  this  is  a  good  way  to  make  sheaves  of  large 
diameters,  for  those  under  8  ft.  diameter  a  full  ring 
is  probably  a  better  way,  providing  the  ring  can  be 
stored  so  as  to  lie  flat  on  its  side,  instead  of  standing  on 
its  edge ;  for,  having  no  arms,  a  large  ring  standing  edge- 
wise would  soon  become  oval. 

The  cores  forming  the  groove  are  made  in  halves 
from  the  box,  of  which  Figs.  142  and  143  are  two  views; 
these  cores  are  pasted  together  at  the  joint,  A,  Fig.  138. 
Four  round  cores  are  made  to  form  the  hub ;  these  are 


JFiy.  138 


Fig.  143. 


SHEAVES    WITH    WROUGHT    IRON    ARMS. 


PATTERN  MAKING.  69 

set  one  on  top  of  the  other  after  making  the  lower  part 
of  the  mound  with  the  segment.  The  lower  hub  core, 
B,  through  which  there  is  a  hole,  should  be  set  over  the 
pin  from  which  the  segment  has  been  swung  around. 
This  will  locate  the  hub  concentric  with  the  rim.  Half 
of  the  arms  should  now  be  set  in  the  mould,  after  which, 
the  two  middle  cores,  C  and  D,  are  located.  When  C 
and  D  are  being  pasted  together  at  the  joint,  £,  care 
should  be  taken  to  get  the  holes  that  receive  the  arms 
exactly  midway  between  those  in  the  lower  part.  The 
center  core,  F,  should  now  be  set,  then  the  balance  of 
the  arms  and  the  top  core,  G.  When  pouring  these 
sheaves,  the  rim  is  allowed  to  shrink  all  it  will  before 
pouring  the  hub,  and  in  large  ones,  the  hub  is  not 
poured  until  the  following  day. 

Figs.  144  and  145  are  sections  of  the  round  core- 
boxes  for  the  hub  cores,  CD  and  DG,  Plenty  of  draught 
should  be  made  on  the  inside  of  these  two  boxes  at  a  a ; 
the  half  round  prints  for  the  arms  are  shown  at  b  b. 

The  small  bosses  shown  in  Figs.  146  and  147  are  used 
in  cope  core-box,  Fig.  140;  the  prints  on  these  small 
arm  bosses  vary ;  the  cores  which  cover  those  arms  run- 
ning upward  from  the  hub,  should  have  Fig.  146  in  the 
box,  and  those  which  run  downward,  Fig.  147.  The 
bosses  on  the  segment  are  made  similar. 


70  PATTERN  MAKING. 


A   MACHINE 

FOR 

SWEEPING    CONICAL   DRUMS. 

DESIGNED    BY    THE    AUTHOR. 

IT  may  not  be  understood  by  some  why  a  winding 
drum  is  sometimes  made  conical  instead  of  a  straight 
cylindrical  form,  and  it  may  not  be  entirely  out  of  place 
here  to  explain  the  reason,  for  the  benefit  of  such. 

Conical  drums  are  used  for  winding  heavy  loads  from 
deep  mines.  When  the  skip  or  load  is  at  the  bottom  of 
the  mine,  ready  to  be  hauled  up,  the  winding  on  the 
drum  begins  at  the  small  end,  and,  as  the  rope  does  not 
wind  as  fast  on  the  small  end  as  it  does  on  the  large  end 
of  the  drum,  it  allows  the  slack  rope  in  the  shaft  to  be 
gradually  taken  up  at  the  starting,  and  also  prevents  the 
load  from  starting  too  suddenly.  The  engines  also  gain 
a  decided  advantage  when  winding  with  conical  drums, 
because,  instead  of  the  winding  being  started  at  full 
speed,  it  gradually  increases,  thus  giving  the  engines  a 
better  chance  to  do  their  work. 

It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  inform  my  readers  that  it 
requires  a  great  deal  more  skill  to  build  and  properly 
secure  a  mould  for  a  large  conical  drum  than  it  does  to 
mould  a  grate  bar ;  but  there  is  a  class  that  stands  so 
high  in  the  engineering  profession,  that  to  them  all  foun- 


Fig.  148. 


SWEEPING   CONICAL   DRUMS. 


PATTERN  MAKING.  71 

dry  work  is  just  a  little  above  unskilled  labor — something 
requiring  more  brute  force  than  anything  else.  Such 
ideas,  though,  do  not  prevail  among  our  genuine  and 
practical  engineers ;  they  are  only  found  among  the  clev- 
erly ignorant. 

All  those  who  have  much  to  do  with  the  machinery 
business  know  what  an  amount  of  consultation  and 
scheming  is  necessary  before  some  jobs  in  a  foundry  can 
be  started,  and  then  how  it  requires  men  of  good  sound 
judgment  to  execute  the  work. 

The  building  of  a  mould  for  a  large  conical  drum  is 
one  of  these  jobs.  The  way  of  sweeping  the  groove,  an 
arrangement  for  which  I  propose  to  describe,  is  only  a 
small  item  of  the  work. 

In  Fig.  148,  A  is  the  sweep  that  travels  up  and  down 
the  screw,  By  as  it  is  pulled  around.  The  spindle,  C,  is 
secured  to  the  cross,  D,  at  the  bottom ;  the  bevel  gear  is 
fast  on  the  spindle,  two  set-screws  in  the  hub  holding  it 
in  place ;  the  bracket,  E,  is  loose,  and  turns  on  the  spin- 
dle ;  it  has  a  bearing  at  a,  in  which  the  pinion  shaft  runs ; 
the  end  of  this  shaft  is  carried  by  a  tee  piece  that  turns 
on  the  spindle.  The  pinion  shaft  and  the  screw  are  con- 
nected by  a  universal  joint,  while  the  screw  is  carried  by 
two  adjustable  curved  pieces,  F  and  G.  Guide-rod,  H, 
keeps  the  nut  from  turning  on  screw,  B ;  arm,  /,  fits  over 
the  bracket,  E,  and  carries  the  curved  piece,  F\  this  arm 
is  also  adjustable. 

Now,  it  will  be  clearly  seen  that,  if  the  arm,  Jt  and  the 
bracket,  E,  are  pulled  around,  it  will  cause  the  pinion  and 
the  screw,  B,  to  turn,  thus  making  the  sweep,  A,  to  travel 
a  certain  distance  every  time  it  goes  around.  The  gears 


72  PATTERN  MAKING. 

determine  the  pitch  of  the  groove  to  be  swept ;  if  the 
proportion  of  the  gears  are  three  to  one,  and  the  screw 
J"  pitch,  then  the  sweep  will  travel  i  J"  at  every  turn, 
making  a  groove  i  \"  pitch.  When  any  other  pitch  is 
required,  the  gears  must  be  changed  for  those  of  a  differ- 
ent proportion,  for  instance,  for  a  2"  pitch  drum  the  pro- 
portion of  the  gears  would  be  4  to  i.  Bracket,  E,  is 
made  so  as  to  permit  the  use  of  gears  of  different  sizes. 

When  a  drum  is  wanted  with  a  left-hand  groove,  the 
gear  on  the  spindle  is  turned  upside  down,  and  located 
under  the  pinion  instead  of  over  it.  The  machine  is  also 
arranged  so  that  a  drum  of  any  angle  can  be  swept. 
This  is  done  by  loosening  the  bolt  that  holds  part  F  in 
place,  and  by  taking  out  those  in  the  upper  part,  G,  thus 
allowing  the  screw  to  be  swung  at  any  angle  from  the 
center  of  the  universal  joint. 

The  reason  for  making  the  arm,  7,  separate  from  the 
bracket,  £,  is  obvious ;  it  is  to  give  a  better  chance  for 
adjusting  the  lower  part  of  the  machine  than  the  swing- 
ing of  the  screw  gives.  The  pinion  shaft  runs  in  close 
to  the  upright  spindle,  so  that  when  the  set-screw  in  the 
pinion  is  loosened,  the  shaft  can  be  pulled  out  to  the 
required  distance,  and  the  set-screw  in  pinion  be  tight- 
ened again.  When  this  is  done,  it  will  be  found  necess- 
ary to  bolt  on  the  flanged  sleeve,  K,  to  the  end  of 
bracket,  E,  between  the  universal  joint  and  the  bearing,  a. 
For  building  and  sweeping  up  the  mould  roughly,  the 
screw  and  pinion  shaft  can  be  disconnected  entirely  and 
a  plain  sweep  made,  bolting  it  to  the  upper  and  lower 
arms,  J  and  /. 

The   engraving   only  represents  the  model  which  I 


PA  TTERN  MAKING.  7  3 

made  of  this  machine ;  the  details  of  the  machine  proper 
will  vary  somewhat.  For  instance,  where  there  are  solid 
boxes  on  the  bracket,  E,  for  the  spindle  and  pinion  shaft, 
there  should  be  caps,  so  as  to  make  it  easier  to  discon- 
nect the  parts.  The  universal  joint  should  also  be  made 
separate  from  the  screw  and  pinion  shaft;  many  other 
items  would  need  changing  when  building  a  machine  to 
do  the  work. 


74"  PATTERN  MAKING. 


GEAR  TEETH. 

IN  the  following  pages  there  are  a  number  of  teeth 
laid  out,  full  size,  from  one  inch  pitch  to  three  inch,  ad- 
vancing by  quarter-inches. 

There  are  fourteen  separate  teeth  in  each  pitch,  suit- 
able for  gears  having  from  fourteen  to  eight  hundred 
teeth;  they  have  been  laid  out  from  Prof.  Robinson's 
Templet  Odontograph  and  are  interchangeable.  The 
clearance  allowed  between  the  teeth  is  -fa  of  the  pitch,  or 
in  other  words,  the  space  is  $fa  and  the  thickness  of  tooth 
Jfo  of  the  pitch;  the  height  of  the  tooth  is  f  of  the  pitch, 
and  the  distance  from  pitch  line  to  top  ^  of  the  pitch. 
This  is  the  proportion  used  for  general  purposes. 

A  templet  can  be  made  from  any  of  these  teeth  and 
fastened  on  a  rod  and  used  in  the  same  way  as  the 
Odontograph  is  in  Fig.  96.  It  would  be  impossible  in  a 
book  of  this  kind  to  give  the  profiles  of  gear  teeth  which 
would  serve  all  cases,  so  that  I  have  confined  myself  to 
the  system  that  is  generally  adopted  and  known  as  the 
Interchangeable  System,  that  is,  all  spur  gears  of  the 
same  pitch  made  under  this  system  will  run  together. 
For  special  gearing  and  bevel  gears  other  settings  are 
preferred ;  those  which  I  have  taken  are  on  each  tooth, 
the  setting  for  the  flank  being  marked  on  the  inside  of 
pitch  line  and  that  for  the  face  on  the  outside.  The 
thickness  of  each  tooth  at  the  bottom  and  top,  and  also 


PATTERN  MAKING.  75 

at  the  pitch  line,  is  correct,  so  that  by  the  aid  of  the  set- 
tings marked,  the  odontograph  can  be  easily  applied  for 
striking  the  curves  on  a  piece  of  sheet  zinc,  from  which 
a  templet  tooth  is  usually  made. 

The  numbers  show  how  many  different  size  wheels  can 
be  made  with  same  size  tooth ;  for  instance — 42  to  47 
means  that  the  same  shape  tooth  will  answer  for  gears 
which  are  to  have  from  42  to  47  teeth. 

On  suceeding  pages,  at  the  end  of  the  book,  will  be 
found  plates,  in  which  some  of  the  teeth  are  shown  in 
gear,  together  with  the  way  they  should  be  made. 


Diameter  of  Wheels  at  the  Pitch  Circle,  from  n  to  joo  Teeth. 


II 


Pitch  of  the  Teeth. 


inch. 


inch. 


inches. 


inches. 


inches. 


inches. 


inches. 

2%. 


inches. 


inches. 


0    10 


3^ 


7r 


9l 


2   10 


93 


6;| 


2    II 
2  n; 


If 


O    Hi 

o| 

I 

i 


10 


2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
3 

3 

3  2^ 

3  3 

3  4 

n 

3  7 
3  8 
3  9 

'j    jo 

3  ii 

4  o 
4     i 
4     2 

4  3 

4  4; 

4  5| 
4 

4  74 

4  8$ 

4  94 

4  io4 


Table  of  the  Diameter  of  Wheels  at  the  Pitch  Circle — Continued. 


Number  o 
Teet 


Pitch  of  the  Teeth. 


inch.         inch.       inches,     inches,     inches,     inches,     inches,     inches,     inches,     inches. 


2      8 


59 

61 
62 
63 
64 
65 
66 

67 
68 

69 
70 

72 
73 
74 
75 
76 
77 
78 

79 
80 
81 
82 

84 
85 
86 

87 
88 
89 
90  4 


93 
94 
95 
96 
97 
98 

99 

100 
101 
102 
I03 
104 


2    10 


2    II 
2    III 


3  31 

3  4 

1-1 

3  6f 

3  71 

3  8 

3  8| 

3  91 

3  IOR 

3  ni 

4  of 
4  if 
4  2 

4  3? 

4  4 

4  41 

4  52 

4  6£ 

4  61 

4  72 

4  81 

4  8ff 

4  92 

4  io| 

4  io| 

5  OF 
5  12 

5  2f 

5  2l 

5  32 

5  4t 

5  5& 

5  5l 


5 

5    7 
5 

5 


61 


9§ 
4  10 


75 
81 
5     9 
5    9f 


4  3l 

4  42 

4  51 

4  61 

4    7i 

4    8 
4     8f 
4    9| 

4  H2 

5  of 
5     il 

H 

5    4f 

III 

S.P 

5  9 
5  10 
5 

5  ii 
6 

6  i£ 
6  2| 
6  3l 
6  4* 
6  5 
6  5l 
6  6| 
6  7f 
6  8J 

6  9f 
6  lot 
6  nl 


C  o 

5  i 

5  2 

5  3i 

5  4l 

5  Si 

5  61 

5  71 
5 
5 
5 

5  "i 

6  oi 
6  I, 
6 

6  3i 

6  5i 

6  6| 

6  71 

6  8| 

6  91 
6 

6 

7 

Li 

J  i 

7  7 
7  8 
7  9i 

7  i°i 

7  n| 
8 

8 

8  2i 
8  3l 
8  41 

8  If 

8  6£ 

8  72 

8  8J 

8  92 

8  loi 


5  4) 

5  5^ 

5  6| 

5  8 

5  9 
5 

5  "i 

6  oi 
6 

6  2{ 

6  31 

6  4^ 

6  6 

6  7 

6  84 

6  9| 

6  io| 

6  113 

7  o| 
7  i| 
7  21 
7  4 
7  51 
7  6^ 
7  71 
7  8| 
7  9| 
7  io| 

7  n| 

8  ol 

8  2 

8  3^ 

8  4\ 

8  Si 
8 

8  71 

8  8i 


9 
9 
9 

9  31 
9 

9  51 
9  6| 
9  7i 


Table  of  the  Diameter  of  Wheels  at  the  Pitch  Circle — Continued. 


Pitch  of  the  Teeth. 


inch. 


inch.       inches. 
2. 


inches. 


inches. 
*%• 


inches,     inches. 

2%. 


inches. 


inches. 


inches. 


105 
1 06 
107 
1 08 
109 

no 
in 

112 

H3 

114 

116 

H7 
118 

H9 

120 
121 

122 
123 

124 

125 
126 
127 
128 
I29 
130 

I32 
133 
134 

'35 
136 
137 

139 
140 
141 

142 

H3 

144 

MS 
146 

14; 
148 
149 
ISO 


6  11 


4l 


7  91 

7  10} 

7  i°4 

7  "A 


31 


8| 


71 


9 

9 

9 

9 

9 

9 

9 

9 

9  81 

9  9? 

Q  IOw 
10   O 
10   I 
10   2 

10  3l 
10  4^ 
10  5i 
10  61 
10  71 
10  81 
10  91 
10  io| 
10  ii| 


9  b^j 
9  10 

10  o| 

1°  1 3 
10  2 1 
10  3$ 

10  4-] 
10  6 
10  7 
10  8J 
10  9  i 
10  ioi 

10  ni 

11  o£ 

II  Iff 
II  2! 


n 


7s 


8  51 


10  ol 


10  3! 

10   4] 

10  si 

10  6 

10  61 

10  7t 

10  8| 

10  90 

10  io| 

IO  III 


10 


II  I 

II  2 

n  3 

ii  4 

n  5 

ii  6 

n  7 

ii  8 

ii  9 


n  10: 

n  iij 

12  O] 

12  ij 

12  2. 

12  3; 

12  4! 

12  6 

12  7 

12  8 

12  9; 

12  10 

12  II 


II 
II 

11  Iij 

12 

12  2 
12  3 
12  4^ 
12  5{- 
12  6] 
12  7.1 
12  8} 
12  9] 

12  10  V 

13  O 
13  ! 
13  2\ 

13  3* 

.3  4f 

13  5) 

13  6£ 

13  7J 
13  8«L 
13  10 

13  "i 


Table  of  the  Diameter  of  Wheels  at  the  Pitch  Circle— Continued. 


Number  of 
Teeth. 


Pitch  of  the  Teeth. 


inches. 
•fe 


inches. 


inches. 


inches. 
3- 


inches. 


inches. 


152 
153 

154 
155 
I56 

157 
I58 

1 60 

161 
162 

163 
164 
165 
1 66 
167 
168 
169 
170 
171 
172 
173 
174 
1/5 
176 
177 
178 

i79 
i  So 
181 
182 

183 
184 
185 
186 
187 
1 88 
189 
190 

191 

192 

193 
194 


9    4 


ii 


u     8 


16 


14  o£ 

14  if 

I4  2| 

14  4f 

14  6f 

14  8 

14  9 

14  io 

14  ii 

15  o- 

15  I 

15  2 

15  3 

15  4 

15  6 

i5 
i5 
15 
15 

15  ii 

16  o 
16 

16  2 

16  4 

16  5 

16  6 

16  7 

16  8 

16  9 

16  105 

16  iif 

17  of 

I/  4 

17  3j 

17  4f 

17  5l 

17  6J 

17  71 

17  8| 

17  9s 

17  ii 

18  oj 
18  il 


Table  of  the  Diameter  of  Wheels  at  the  Pitch  Circle— Continued. 


Number  of 
Teeth. 

Pitch  of  the  Teeth. 

inches. 
afc. 

inches. 

^K- 

inches. 

•& 

inches. 
3- 

inches. 
3^- 

linches. 
3fc 

I96 

ii  8| 

12  11$ 

H  3l 

IS  71 

16  io| 

18  2f 

I97 

ii  9 

13  o; 

i 

H  4l 

15  84 

16  n| 

18  3: 

I98 

ii  94 

13  ii! 

14  Si 

15  9 

17  o$ 

18  4. 

199 

ii  iol 

I3   2^ 

14  64 

15  10 

17  i4 

18  5! 

200 
201 

II  11} 
ii  11$ 

13  3^ 
13  3* 

H  7 

H  74 

15  10$ 
15  "i 

17   2$ 

17  3t 

18  6; 
18  7$ 

2O2 

12   0§ 

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14  8$ 

16  oj 

17  4$ 

18  9 

203 

12   if 

13  5* 

14  9 

16  i$ 

17  6 

18  10 

204 

12   2 

13   6; 

14   10; 

16  2$ 

17  7 

18   II; 

205 

12   2$ 

13  7i 

14   II 

16  3l 

17  8 

19   0; 

206 

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13  7i 

IS  of 

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17  9\ 

19    I 

207 

12   4} 

13  8j 

15  ii 

16  5t 

17  loj 

19   2 

208 

12   44 

13  9! 

15   2 

16  6 

17  nl 

19    3 

209 

12  sf 

13  10; 

IS   2$ 

16  7* 

18  0} 

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210 

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13  "I 

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19  51 

211 

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19  7 

212 

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213 

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214 

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215 

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14  3 

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216 

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14  3£ 

15  9 

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18  7l 

20   0 

217 

12  Ilf 

H  4i 

15  9l 

17  3i 

18  s 

20  i: 

218 

13  o 

14  Si 

15  ioi 

17  4i 

18  •,. 

20   2 

219 

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16  4 

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226 

13  5s 

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16  5& 

17  "I 

19  5l 

20  11^ 

227 

13  61 

15  o| 

16  6| 

18  of 

19  6$ 

21   0^ 

228 

13  7l 

15  If 

16  7* 

18  i| 

19  7l 

21   2 

229 

13  8 

15   2j 

16  8| 

18  2f 

19  8^ 

21  3& 

230 

13  8| 

J5  3 

16  9f 

18  3i 

19  9i 

21  4] 

231 

13  91 

15  3* 

16  loj 

18  4l 

19  10$ 

21   5f 

232 

13  I0fl 

15  4f 

16  ii 

18  5* 

20   0 

21   6^ 

233 

13  10* 

15  si 

16  11$ 

18  6| 

20   I 

21   7j 

234 

13  n£ 

IS  6& 

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20   2 

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235 

14  o] 

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17  if 

18  8f 

20  3 

21   9l 

236 

14  i 

15  7* 

17   2l 

18  9| 

20   4$ 

21  10? 

237 

H  4 

15  81 

17  3i 

1  8  lof 

20   5J 

22   0 

238 

I4   2| 

15  9i 

17   48 

18  11} 

20   61 

22   ij 

239 

H  3* 

15  io| 

17  5* 

19  o| 

20   7| 

22   2\ 

240 

14  3i 

15  io| 

17  6 

19  *S 

20   81 

22   3g 

So 

Table  of  the  Diameter  of  Wheels  at  the  Pitch  Circle — Continued. 


Number  of 
Teeth. 

Pitch  of  the  Teeth. 

inches. 
^ 

inches. 

inches. 

inches. 
3- 

inches. 

inches. 

241 

14      42 

15    "I 

17     6| 

19      2? 

2O      9§ 

22      4§ 

242 

H    5] 

16    oft 

17    7f 

19      3l 

20    I  Of 

22      5l 

243 

14    6 

16     if 

17    «f 

19      41 

20    Ilf 

22      6| 

244 

14    6| 

16      2ft 

17      92 

19    5? 

21      Of 

22      7l 

245 

H    7| 

16      2| 

17  i  of 

19    6| 

21       if 

22      8f 

246 

14    8ft 

16    3l 

17    Hf 

19    7f 

21       2| 

22    10 

247 

14    8| 

16    4ft 

1  8    oft 

19    8ft 

21       32 

22    lift 

248 

14    9| 

16    5ft 

18     i 

19    9 

21       4ft 

23      °4 

249 

14  iof 

1  6    6ft 

18    il 

19    9l 

21     5ft 

23       Ift 

250 

14  ii 

16    61 

18    2! 

19  iol 

21       6| 

23      2ft 

251 

H  "I 

16    71 

18    3l 

19  iif 

21       7| 

23    3l 

252 

*5    of 

16    8ft 

18    4ft 

20      0| 

21       8| 

23    4f 

253 

*5       Ift 

16    gj 

18    51 

20      I? 

21       98 

23    5l 

254 

15   Ii 

16  loft 

18    6| 

20      22 

21    IO| 

23     6| 

255 

15      2| 

16  iol 

18    7ft 

20      32 

21    Ilf 

23    8 

256 

15    3f 

16  nl 

18    8 

20      4§ 

22      Ol 

23    9\ 

257 

15    4 

17     02 

18    81 

20    5f 

22      II 

23  io| 

258 

15     4| 

17     i§ 

18    91 

20      6f 

22      2j 

259 

15    51 

17      2ft 

18  loj 

20      7| 

22      3i 

24    oft 

260 

15     64i 

17      2l 

18  ill 

20      8] 

22      4! 

24       1  8 

26l 

15     6£ 

17     3l 

19    o| 

20    9& 

22      6 

24      2| 

262 

15     71 

17    4i 

19     if 

20    10ft 

22      7 

24    3l 

263 

15     8| 

i7    5t 

19      2ft 

20    lift 

22      8 

24    5 

264 

15     9 

17    6 

19    3 

21      Oft 

22      9ft 

24    6ft 

265 

15     9l 

17    61 

19      35 

21       I 

22    10ft 

24    7i 

266 

15  IOI 

17    7f 

19    4l 

21       2 

22    lift 

24    8f 

267 

15  nft 

17    8| 

19    5t 

21       2l 

23    oj 

24    9i 

268 

15  n| 

17    9i 

19    6ft 

21       3l 

23       Ii 

24  io| 

269 

16    o| 

17  10 

19    7t 

21     4! 

23      2\ 

24  Hf 

270 

16     if 

17  iol 

19    8f 

21    51 

23    3l 

25    ol 

271 

16     2 

17  III 

19    9t 

21      6| 

23     4s 

25     is 

272 

16    2| 

18    of 

19  10 

21     7l 

23    5t 

25     3 

273 

16    3ft 

18    ift 

19  i°l 

21     8| 

23    6f 

25     4ft 

274 

16    4ft  . 

18     2 

19  nl 

21     9! 

23    7l 

25     5l 

275 

16     4l 

18    2! 

20      Of 

21    IO| 

23    8f 

25     6I 

276 

16    51 

18    3t 

20      ift 

21    lift 

23    9£ 

25     7l 

277 

16    6f 

1  8    4f 

20      2f 

22      0^ 

23  loft 

25    8| 

278 

16    7 

18    5* 

20    3! 

22      if 

25  lift 

25     9t 

279 

16    71 

18    6 

20      4ft 

22      2§ 

24    o| 

25  iol 

280 

16    8ft 

18    61 

20    5 

22      3f 

24   if 

25  "I 

28l 

16    9j 

18    71 

20    51 

22      4f 

24      2f 

26     i 

282 

16    9! 

18    8f 

20    61 

22    si 

24    3l 

26      2ft 

283 

16  lof 

18    9ft 

20    7f 

22      6ft 

24    4l 

26     3\ 

284 

16  nf 

18    9| 

20      8| 

22      7ft 

24    5l 

26    4f 

285 

17     oft 

18  io| 

20    9f 

o  - 

22      8ft 

24    6| 

26    5ft 

Table  of  the  Diameter  of  Wheels  at  the  Pitch  Circle— Continued. 


Number  of 
Teeth. 

Pitch  of  the  Teeth. 

inches. 

2%. 

inches. 

inches. 

inches. 
3- 

inches. 
31/- 

inches. 

286 

18   II; 

20   lOf 

22      9 

24      7* 

26    6| 

287 

19    o\ 

20   I  if 

22    IO 

24    8] 

26      7| 

288 

I9      l\ 

21      0 

22    II 

24     9? 

26    8| 

289 

I9      l\ 

21      0| 

22    11$- 

24  io| 

26    91 

290 

19      2- 

21       1\ 

23    of 

25    o 

26  ii 

29I 

19      3! 

21       2\ 

23      l| 

25     i 

27     ol 

292 

19     4: 

21     31 

23      2| 

25       2 

27     if 

293 

19     5 

21      4' 

23      3^ 

25    3^ 

r 

27      2f 

294 

. 

19    5i 

21    5 

23     4 

25     41 

1 

27    3i 

295 

17      7: 

19    6 

21      6- 

23    5 

25     5 

27    4l 

296 

17    7i 

19    7 

21     7 

23    6 

25     6] 

27     51 

297 

17    8, 

19    8 

21       7$ 

23    7 

25     7 

27    6f 

298 

17     9 

19    9 

21       8£ 

23    8J 

25     8 

27     7f 

299 

17  10 

19    9i 

21       9§ 

23    9 

25     9 

1 

27    9i 

300 

17  10 

19  io§ 

21    10$ 

23  io 

25  io 

f 

27  io* 

82 


Weight  of  Cast  Iron  Balls  from  I  to  12  Inches  Diameter. 


Size. 

Wt. 

Size. 

Wt. 

Size. 

Wt. 

Size. 

Wt. 

Size. 

Wt. 

Inch. 
I 

*J 

2 

2* 

3 

Ibs. 
.136 
.460 
1.09 
2.13 
3.68 

Inch. 
3** 
4 
41 

5* 

Ibs. 
5-84 
8.72 
12.42 
17.04 
22.68 

Inch. 
6 

6* 

7* 

8 

Ibs. 
29-45 
37-44 
46.76 
57-52 
69.81 

Inch. 

8* 
9 
9l 

10 
IOJ 

Ibs. 
83.73 
99-4 
116.9 

136.35 
157.84 

Inch. 
II 
II| 
12 

Ibs. 
181.48 
207.37 
235.62 

Weight  of  Cast  Iron  Pipes  12  Inches  Long,  from  \  to  i\  Inch  Thick. 


Diam. 
of  Bore. 

Inch. 
H 

Inch 
% 

Inch. 
% 

Inch. 

N 

Inch. 
% 

Inch. 
% 

Inch. 

Inch. 

V* 

Inch. 
*K 

Inch. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

I 

3.06 

5-06 

7.36 

9-97 

12.89 

16.11 

19.63 

I* 

3.68 

5.98 

8-59 

11.51 

J4-73 

18.25 

22.09 

I| 

4.29 

6.9 

9.82 

13-04 

16.56 

20.4 

24-54 

28.99 

33-74 

l| 

4.91 

7.83 

11.05 

14-57 

18.41 

22-55 

27- 

31-75 

36.76 

2 

5-53 

8.75 

12.27 

i6.n 

20.25 

24.7 

29-45 

34-46 

39.89 

2i 

6.14 

9.66 

13-5 

17.64 

22.09 

26.84 

31.85 

37-28 

42.95 

2I 

6.74 

10.58 

14.72 

19.17 

23-92 

28-93 

34-36 

40.03 

46.02 

2f 

7-36 

"•5 

15-95 

20.7 

25-7I 

3LI4 

36.81 

42.8 

49.08 

3 

7.98 

12.43 

17.18 

22.19 

27.62 

33-29 

39-28 

45.56 

52.16 

3i 

8-59 

13-34 

18-35 

23-78 

29-45 

35-44 

41.72 

48.32 

55-22 

3i      9-2 

14.21 

19.64 

25-3I 

31-3 

37.58 

44.18 

51.08 

58.29 

3l      9-76 

15-19 

20.86 

26.85 

33-13 

39-73 

46.63 

53.84 

61.36 

4       10-44 

i6.n 

22.1 

28.38 

34.98 

41.88 

49.09 

56.61 

64.43 

4|     11.  i 

17.08 

23-37 

29-97 

36.87 

44.08 

51.6 

59-42 

67.55 

4j     11.66 

17.94 

24-54 

3M4 

38.65 

46.17 

53-99 

62.12 

70.56 

4|     12.27 

18.87 

25-77 

32-98 

40.5 

48.32 

56.45 

64.89 

73.63 

5       12.88 

19.78 

26.99 

34.51 

42.33 

50.46 

58.9 

67.64 

76.69 

5}     13-5 

20.71 

28.23 

36.05 

44-18 

52.62 

61.36 

70.41 

79-77 

5£     14." 

21.63 

2945 

37.58 

46.02 

54.76 

63.81 

73-17 

82.84 

5l    ,14-73 

22-55 

30.68 

39.12 

47-86 

56.91 

66.27 

75-94 

85.91 

83 


Weight  of  Cast  Iron  Pipes  12  Inches  Long,  from  \tol\  Inch     Thick — Cont. 


Diam. 
of  Bore. 

Inch, 

X 

Inch, 
% 

Inch, 
% 

Inch, 
% 

Inch, 

% 

Inch, 

% 

Inch, 

i 

Inch, 
ft 

Inch, 
»H 

Inch. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

6 

15-34 

23-47 

3I-9I 

40.65 

49-7 

59.06 

6873 

78.7 

88.75 

6J 

15-95 

24-39 

33-13 

42.18 

51-54 

6l.2I 

7I.I8 

81.23 

92.04 

6£ 

16-57 

25-3I 

34.36 

43-72 

53-39 

63.36 

73-41 

84.22 

95-i 

6f 

17.18 

26.23 

35-59 

45.26 

55-23 

65.28 

76.09 

86-97 

98.18 

7 

17.79 

27-I5 

36.82 

46.79 

56.84 

67.65 

78-53 

8974 

101.24 

7} 

18.41 

28.08 

38.05 

48.1 

58.91 

6979 

81. 

92.5 

104.31 

7* 

19.03 

29. 

39-05 

49-86 

60.74 

71-95 

83.45 

95-26 

107.38 

71 

19.64 

29.69 

40.5 

51-38 

62.59 

74.09 

85-9 

98.02 

110.45 

8 

20.02 

30.83 

41.71 

52.92 

64.42 

76.23 

88.35 

100.78 

II3-5I 

8| 

20.86 

31-74 

42.95 

54-45 

66.26 

78.38 

90.81 

103-54 

116.58 

8.} 

21.69 

32.9 

44-4 

56.21 

68.33 

80.76 

93-49 

106.53 

119.87 

8| 

22.09 

33-59 

45-4 

57.52 

69-95 

82.68 

95-72 

109.06 

122.72 

9 

22.71 

34.52 

46.64 

59-07 

71.8 

84.84 

98.18 

111.84 

125.8 

9} 

23-31 

35-43 

47-86 

60.59 

73-63 

86.97 

100.63 

114-59 

128.85 

9i 

23-93 

36-36 

49.09 

62.13 

75-47 

89.13 

103.09 

117-35 

I3L93 

91 

24.55 

37.28 

50.32 

63.66 

77-32 

91.28 

105.54 

120.12 

!34-99 

10 

25.16 

38-2 

51-54 

65.2 

79.16 

93-42 

1  08. 

122.87 

138.06 

loj 

25-77 

39-" 

52-77 

66.73 

80.99 

95-57 

110.44 

125.63 

141.12 

IOJ 

26.38 

40.04 

54- 

68.26 

82.84 

97.71 

112.9 

128.39 

144.19 

io| 

27. 

40.96 

55-22 

69.8 

84-67 

99.86 

"5.35 

I3LI5 

147.26 

II 

27.62 

41.88 

56.46 

71-33 

86.52 

102.01 

117.81 

I33.92 

1  50.33 

III 

28.22 

42.8 

57-67 

72.86 

88-35 

104.15 

120.26 

136.67 

I53-4 

MIi 

28.84 

43-71 

58.9 

74-39 

90.19 

106.3 

122.71 

13944 

156.44 

III 

29-45 

44.64 

60.13 

75-93 

92.04 

108.45 

125.18 

142.18 

159-54 

12 

30.06 

45-55 

61-35 

77.46 

93-6 

1  10.6 

127.6 

144.96 

162.6 

Weight  of  Cast  Iron  Pipes  12  Inches  Long,  from  \l  to  \\  Inch  Thick. 


D.  of  B. 

i%  Inch. 

i%  Inch. 

D.  of  B. 

i%  Inch. 

i%  Inch. 

D.  of  B. 

i%  Inch. 

i%  Inch. 

Inch. 

Ibs, 

Ibs. 

Inch. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Inch. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

2} 

48.94 

55-22 

5t 

95-96 

106.77 

9 

140.06 

154.64 

2a 

52.30 

58-9 

6 

99-56 

110.44 

9i 

143-43 

158.3 

2  f 

55-68 

62.58 

6J 

102.92 

114.13 

9i 

146.8 

161.99 

3 

59-o6 

66.27 

6* 

106.31 

117.81 

9l 

150.18 

165.67 

3t 

62.43 

69.95 

6| 

109.68 

121.49 

10 

153-55 

169.35 

3i 

65.81 

73-63 

7 

"3-05 

125.17 

10} 

156.92 

I73.03 

3l 

69.18 

77-31 

7i 

116.43 

128.86 

io| 

160.3 

176.71 

4 

72.56 

81. 

7* 

119.81 

132.54 

lof 

163.67 

180.4 

4j 

75-99 

8473 

71 

123.18 

136.22 

II 

167.06 

184.06 

4$ 

79-3 

88.35 

8 

126.55 

139.89 

ll\ 

170.4 

187.76 

4f 

82.68 

92.04 

8* 

129.92 

I43-58 

III 

173-8 

191.44 

5 

86.05 

95-72 

8| 

133-53 

147.49 

Ilf 

177.18 

195.12 

51 

89-44 

99.41 

8| 

136.68 

150.94 

12 

180.54 

198.8 

5* 

92.81 

102.86 

84 


Round  Cast  Iron  Twelve  Inches  Long. 


Siz 

e. 

Weight. 

Size. 

Weight. 

Size. 

Weight. 

Size. 

Weight. 

Size. 

Weight. 

Inc 

1. 

Ibs. 

Inch. 

Ibs. 

Inch. 

Ibs. 

Inch. 

Ibs. 

Inch. 

Ibs. 

j 

.61 

2\ 

12.42 

4 

39-27 

51 

8I.I4 

9 

198.79 

' 

•95 

2§ 

13.84 

4* 

41.76 

5* 

84.71 

9\ 

210. 

_ 

2f 

15-33 

4* 

44-27 

6 

88.35 

9* 

221.5 

\ 

' 

\\1 

2i 

16.91 

4f 

46.97 

6* 

95-87 

9l 

233-34 

2-45 

2| 

18.56 

4£ 

49-7 

6I 

103.69 

10 

245-43 

\ 

3-1 

2|" 

20.28 

4| 

52.5 

6| 

111.82 

lot 

257.86 

3-83 

3 

22.08 

4| 

55-37 

7 

I2O.26 

10J 

270.59 

4.64 

3k 

23.96 

4J 

58.32 

7i 

129. 

I0| 

283.63 

5-52 

4 

25.92 

5 

6i-35 

7i 

138.05 

II 

296.97 

6.48 

3f 

27-95 

5i 

64.46 

7l 

147.41 

lit 

310.63 

7-5i 

3* 

30.06 

5* 

67.64 

8 

I57-08 

«J 

324.59 

1 

8.62 

3f 

32.25 

5l 

70.09 

81 

167.05 

III 

338.85 

2 

9.81 

3l 

34-51 

52 

74-24 

8? 

I77.I 

12 

353-43 

2, 

\ 

1  1.  08 

3$ 

36-85 

58 

77.65 

8f 

187.91 

Square  Cast  Iron  Twelve  Inches  Long. 


Size. 

Weight. 

Size. 

Weight. 

Size. 

Weight. 

Size. 

Weight. 

Size. 

Weight. 

[Inch. 

Ibs. 

Inch. 

Ibs. 

Inch. 

Ibs. 

Inch. 

Ibs. 

Inch. 

Ibs. 

* 

•78 

2t 

I5.8I 

4 

50. 

51 

103.32 

9 

253.I2 

f 

1.22 

2f 

17.62 

4i 

53-14 

51 

107.86 

94L 

267.38 

| 

1-75 

2i 

19-53 

4t 

56.44 

6 

II2.5 

9£ 

282. 

1 

2-39 

2t 

21-53 

4t 

59.81 

6t 

122.08 

9l 

297.07 

1 

3.12 

2t 

23-63 

4f 

63-28 

6* 

132.03 

10 

312.5 

«i 

3-95 

2F 

25-83 

4f 

66.84 

6| 

142.38 

K>t 

328.32 

} 

4.88 

3 

28.12 

4t 

70.5 

7 

153-12 

IOJ 

344-53 

f 

5-9 

3i 

30.51 

4i 

74-26 

7i 

164.25 

I0| 

36LI3 

| 

7-03 

3t 

33- 

5 

78.12 

7i 

!75.78 

II 

378.12 

I 

8.25 

3f 

35-59 

5i 

82.08 

71 

187.68 

lit 

395-5 

f 

9-57 

3f 

38.28 

5t 

86.13 

8 

200. 

"i 

413.28 

| 

10.98 

3f 

41.06 

51 

90.28 

8t 

212.56 

lit 

43*44 

2 

12.5 

3l 

43-94 

5J 

94-53 

g| 

225.78 

12 

450. 

2j 

14.11 

3t 

46.92 

5f 

98.87 

8| 

239.25 

85 


Flat  Cast  Iron  Twelve  Inches  Long,  \  to  I  Inch  Thick, 


Width  of 
Iron. 

Inch. 
K 

Inch. 
% 

Inch. 

K 

Inch. 

N 

Inch. 
% 

Inch. 
% 

Inch. 

i 

Inch. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

2 
2\ 

I.56 

i-75 

2-34 
2.63 

3.12 
3-51 

3-9 

4.68 
5-27 

5.46 
6.15 

6.25 
7-03 

2I 

i-95 

2.92 

3-9 

4.88 

5.85 

6.83 

7.8l 

2| 

2.14 

3-22 

4.29 

5-37 

6-44 

7-51 

8-59 

3 

2-34 

3-51 

4.68 

5.85 

7-03 

8.2 

9-37 

3* 

2-53 

3.8 

5-07 

6-34 

7.61 

8.88 

10.15 

3* 

2-73 

4.1 

5.46 

6.83 

8.2 

9-57 

10.93 

3f 

2-93 

4-39 

5.85 

7-32 

8.78 

10.25 

11.71 

4 

3.12 

4.68 

6.25 

7.81 

9-37 

10.93 

12.5 

4i 

3-32 

4-97 

6.64 

8-3 

9.96 

11.62 

13.28 

4J 

3-5i 

5-27 

7-03 

8.78 

10.54 

12.3 

14.06 

4| 

3-7i 

5.56 

7.42 

9.27 

11.13 

12.98 

14.84 

5 

3-9 

5.86 

7-8i 

9.76 

11.71 

13.67 

15.62 

5* 

4-1 

6.15 

8.2 

10.25 

12.3 

14-35 

16.4 

51 

4.29 

6.44 

8-59 

10.74 

12.89 

I5-03 

17.18 

51 

4-49 

6-73 

8.98 

11.23 

I3-46 

I5-72 

17.96 

6 

4.68 

7-03 

9-37 

11.71 

14.06 

16.4 

18.75 

Weight  of  a  Superficial  Foot  of  Cast  Iron  from  \  to  2  Inches  Thick. 


Thickness. 

X 

H 

K 

% 

% 

% 

i 

«X 

Wt. 

Ibs. 

9-37 

Ibs. 

14.06 

Ibs. 

18-75 

Ibs. 
23-43 

Ibs. 

28.12 

Ibs. 
32.81 

Ibs. 

37-5 

Ibs. 

42.18 

Thickness. 

'M 

'% 

*% 

'% 

i% 

'% 

2 

Wt. 

Ibs. 
46.87 

Ibs. 

5J-56 

Ibs. 
56.25 

Ibs. 
60.93 

Ibs. 
65.62 

Ibs. 
70.31 

Ibs. 

75- 

86 


Weight  of  Square  Lead  Twelve  Inches  Long,  from  I  to  3  Inches  Square. 


Size. 

i  in. 

«K 

*H 

'% 

•K 

'5/8 

'% 

i% 

2 

Wt. 

Ibs, 

4-93 

Ibs. 

6.25 

Ibs. 

7.71 

Ibs. 

9-33 

Ibs. 

II.  II 

Ibs. 
13.04 

Ibs. 
15.12 

Ibs. 

17-36 

Ibs. 

19.75 

Size. 

^ 

*y± 

2% 

*y* 

*% 

2% 

»% 

3 

Wt. 

Ibs. 
22.29 

Ibs. 

25. 

Ibs. 
27.8 

Ibs. 

30.86 

Ibs. 
34.02 

Ibs. 
37-34 

Ibs. 
40.81 

Ibs. 
4444 

Weight  of  Round  Lead  Twelve  Inches  Long,  from  I  to  3  Inches  Diameter. 


Size. 

i  in. 

»x 

.«* 

i% 

«x 

'5/8 

'% 

1% 

2 

Wt. 

Ibs. 
3-87 

Ibs. 
4-9 

Ibs. 
6.06 

Ibs. 
7-33 

Ibs. 
8.72 

Ibs. 

IO.24 

Ibs. 

11.87 

Ibs. 

13.63 

Ibs. 

15.51 

Size. 

2% 

*A 

4j 

^ 

2% 

2% 

»% 

3 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Ibs. 

Wt. 

17.51 

19.63 

21.8 

24.24 

26.72 

29.33 

32.05 

34-9 

Binary  and 

Decimal  Fractions. 

=.015625 

11 

=•359375 

tt  =-6875 

A 

=  .03125 

f  =.375 

If 

=.703125 

=.046875 

ff 

=.390625 

If   =.71875 

TV  =.0625 

H 

=.40625 

II 

=.734375 

A 

=.078125 

11 

=.421875 

f  =-75 

=.09375 

&  =.4375 

If 

=  765625 

A 

=.109375 

ff 

=.453125 

ff   =.78125 

\  =-125 

if 

=46875 

H 

=.796875 

A 

=.140625 

H 

=484375 

if  =-8125 

A 

=.15625' 

i  =.5 

ff 

=.828125 

H 

=.171875 

ff 

=•515625 

II   =.84375 

A  =-l875 

H 

=.53125 

ff 

=.859375 

H 

=.203125 

ff 

=.546875 

f  =.875 

g-V 

=.21875 

re  =.5625 

fi 

=.890625 

M 

=•234375 

ff 

=.578125 

ft   =.90625 

H 

=.265625 

«if 

=•59375 
=.609375 

ff 

=  921875 
if  =.9375 

A 

=.28125 

f  =.625 

fi 

=•953125 

if 

=.296875 

H 

=.640625 

M   =.96875 

A  =.3125 

11 

=  65625 

ff 

=•984375 

li  , 

=.328125 

ff 

=  671875 

i  =1.000000 

H 

=.34375 

87 


Distances  at  which  to  open  a  2  ft.  Rule  to  obtain  a  given  Angle. 


Angle. 

Distance. 

Angle. 

Distance. 

Angle. 

Distance. 

Angle. 

Distance. 

Angle. 

Distance. 

Deg. 

Inches 

Deg. 

Inches 

Deg. 

Inches 

Deg. 

Inches 

Deg. 

Inches 

I 

.2 

3.96 

37 

7.6l 

55 

1  1.  08 

73 

14.28 

2 

.42 

20 

4-17 

38 

7.8l 

56 

11.27 

74 

14.44 

3 

.63 

21 

4-37 

39 

8.01 

57 

11-45 

14.61 

4 

.84 

22 

4-58 

40 

8.20 

58 

11.64 

76 

14.78 

5 

1.05 

23 

4-78 

8.40 

59 

11.82 

77 

14.94 

6 

1.26 

24 

4-99 

42 

8.60 

60 

12.00 

78 

15.11 

7 

1.47 

25 

5-19 

43 

8.80 

61 

12.18 

79 

I5-27 

8 

1.67 

26 

5-40 

44 

8.99 

62 

12.36 

80 

15-43 

9 

1.88 

27 

5-6o 

45 

9.18 

63 

12.54 

81 

15-59 

10 

2.09 

28 

5.81 

46 

9-38 

64 

12.72 

82 

15-75 

ii 

2.30 

29 

6.01 

47 

9-57 

65 

12.90 

83 

15-9° 

12 

2-51 

3° 

6.21 

48 

9.76 

66 

13.07 

84 

1  6.06 

13 

2.72 

31 

6.41 

49 

9-95 

67 

13.25 

85 

16.21 

14 

2.92 

32 

6.62 

50 

10.14 

68 

I3-42 

86 

16.37 

15 

3.13 

33 

6.82 

10-33 

69 

13-59 

87 

16.52 

16 

3-34 

34 

7.02 

52 

10.52 

70 

13.77 

88 

16.67 

17 

3.55 

35 

7.22 

53 

10.71 

7i 

!3-94 

89 

16.82 

18 

3-75 

36 

7.42 

54 

10.90 

72 

14.11 

90 

16.97 

88 


French  Metre  reduced  to  Inches. 


Metre. 

Inches. 

il 

Metre. 

Inches. 

Feet. 

.001587 

--. 

A 

I 

=  .OOI 

= 

.03937 

=  .00328 

.00317 

33 

| 

2 

=  .OO2 

= 

.07874 

=  .00656 

.00476 

= 

3 

=  .003 

= 

.IlSlI 

=  .00984 

.00635 

33 

£ 

4 

=  .004 

= 

.15748 

=  .01312 

.00794 

— 

A 

5 

=  -005 

= 

.19685 

=  .01641 

.00952 

— 

f 

6 

=  .006 

= 

.23622 

=  .01969 

.01  II  I 

•  — 

7 

=  .007 

= 

-2756 

=  .02397 

.01270 

SS 

t 

8 

=  .008 

= 

.31497 

=  .02625 

.01429 

— 

A 

9 

=  .009 

= 

•35434 

=  .02953 

.01587 

rz: 

1 

.01746 

SS 

¥ 

11 

.01905 

= 

t 

u  S 

.02064 

33 

I 

=  .01 

= 

•3937 

=  .0328 

.02222 

zrr 

¥ 

2 

=  .02 

= 

.7874 

=  .0656 

.02381 

—  r 

ii 

3 

=  -03 

= 

1.1811 

=  .0984 

.02540 

— 

i 

4 

=  .04 

= 

1.5748 

.05078 

35 

2 

5 

=  .05 

= 

1.9685 

=  .1641 

.0762 

33 

3 

6 

=  .06 

= 

2.3622 

=  .1969 

.1016 

— 

4 

7 

=  .07 

= 

2-756 

=  -2397 

.1270 

SSS 

5 

8 

=  .08 

= 

3-1497 

=  .2625 

.1524 

SS 

6 

9 

^  .09 

= 

3.5434 

=  -2953 

.1778 

•  • 

7 

.2032 

= 

8 

li 

.2286 

— 

9 

fi'l 

.2540 

~ 

10 

I 

=  .1 

= 

3.9371 

=  .3281 

•2794 

33 

ii 

2 

=  .2 

— 

7.8742 

=  .6562 

,3048 

sas 

12 

3 

-3 

— 

11.8112 

=  .9843 

. 

4 

=  -4 

= 

15-7483 

=  1.3124 

5 

=  .5 

— 

19.6854 

=  1.6404 

6 

=  .6 

= 

23.6225 

=  1.9685 

7 

=  -7 

= 

27.5596 

=  2.3966 

8 

=  .8 

= 

31.4966 

=  2.6247 

9 

=  -9 

= 

35-4337 

=  2.9528 

THE  METRE  =  3.2808992  FEET  (ABOUT  39!  INCHES). 


89 


PLATES   OF    GEAR   TEETH 


13 


14    i'/P. 


•32 


3-81 


!Ct  to  17  I'.'P.  18  1o  19   I'.'jP,  90  to  21    l"  P 


1-81 


28  to  31   l'!  P 


42  to  47  l'!  P. 


to  130  l"P.  131  to  800   I'.'P 


FULL   SIZE   GEAR   TEETH. 
From  Prof.  S.   W.  Robinson's   Templet  Odontograph. 


13 


14 


16  to  I 

r 

*  114"P, 

K 

1 

•41 

\ 

22  to  2k  ix'.'r.  25  fo 


15 


r 

•46 

A 

1-84 

so  to 


2-20 


to  31  IX.  F. 


1 

FULL   SIZE   GEAR   TEETH. 

From  Prof.  S.  W.  Robinson's   Templet  Odontograph, 


48  to  fib  i'/f."  P 


14 


5-71 


•4S 


18  to  19 


3-72 


is i  tosoo  tx'.'r 


15  1VS.  P. 


R- 


•52 


2-70 


•57 


1-40 


16  to  17  V4.  P 


2O  to  21  &&"  P.  2S  to  24 


2-01 


25  to  27  Ite'.'R.  28  to  31  1%'.  P.  32  to  35  1%" P 


FULL   SIZE   GEAR   TEETH. 

From  Prof.  S.  W,  Robinson's   Templet  Odontograph. 


SO  to  41  1X"P.  42  to  47  1&"  P. 


FULL   SIZE   GEAR   TEETH. 

From  Prof.  S.  W.  Robinson's   Templet  Odontograph, 


25  to  2%  IK.  P.  28  to 


1-87 


I 


l-iffl 


32  to  35  IK. P. 


1-1; 


36  to  41  IK"  P.  42  to  47.  IK"  P.  48  to  62  IK'.' P. 


FULL   SIZE   GEAR   TEETH. 

From  Prof.  S.  W.  Robinson's   Templet  Odontograph, 


14 


16  to  17  2.  P. 


•70 


2O  to  21  2.  P. 


3-62 


22  to  24  2'.'P. 


•72 


2-68 


FULL   SIZE   GEAR   TEETH. 
From  Prof.  S.   W.  Robinson's   Templet  Odontograph. 


25  to  27  2"  P. 


•71 


2-14 


32  to  3 


1-68 


•8:2 


1-40 


2"P. 


.42  to  47  2.  P. 


SS  to  31   2. 'P. 


•76 


.80 


\ 


36  to  41  2.  P. 


I 
48  to  62  2.  P. 


FULL   SIZE   GEAR   TEETH. 

from  Prof.  S.   IV.  Robinson 's   Templet  Odontograph. 


63  to  ISO  2"  P. 


a"  P. 


14  %x.  p. 


16  to  17  aX. 


•74 


FULL   SIZE   GEAR   TEETH. 
from  Prof.  S.   W,  Robinson's   Templet  Odontograph. 


20  to  2 


•70 


4-07 


25  to  27  214.  P. 


2-40 


32  to  35  2H.  P. 


22  to  24  2U'.'P. 


•81 


3-01 


2ft  to  31 


•85 


2-09 


1-73 


36  to  41   8X.P. 


FULL   SIZE   GEAR   TEETH. 
from  Prof,  5.  W.  Robinson's   Templet  Odontograph, 


FULL   SIZE   GEAR   TEETH. 

From  Prof.  S.   W.  Robinson  s    Templet   Odontograph. 


14 


so 


IS 


•80 


16  to  17  2H.  P. 


is  /o  i.o  2^.  r 


6-50 


-88 


FULL   SIZE   GEAR   TEETH. 

From  Prof.  S.  W.  Robinson's   Templet  Odontograph. 


20  to  21  2)4.  P. 


22  to  24 


4-52 


•90 


3-35 


25  to  27 


.  P. 


2-67 


28  to  31  2V*.  P. 


•or, 


2-32 


FULL  SIZE   GEAR   TEETH. 
From  Prof.  S.  W.  Robinson's   Templet  Odontograph. 


32  to  35  2H'.'P. 


2-10 


42  to  4f, 


1-02 


36  to  41  2H'.'P. 


1-00 


1-92 


214.  P. 


48  to  62 


1-07 


'.' P. 


FULL   SIZE   GEAR   TEETH. 
From   Prof.  S.   W.  Robinson's   Templet  Odontograph. 


63  to  ISO 


FULL   SIZE   GEAR   TEETH. 

From  Prof.  S.  W.  Robinson's   Templet  Odontograph. 


to  17  2K.  P. 


18  to  19  2K-  P. 


2O  to  21  2%'.'P 


•4-00 


6-82 


•9:1 


22  to  24 


•99 


3-68 


2H.  P. 


FULL   SIZE   GEAR   TEETH. 
From  Prof.  S.   W.  Robinson's   Templet  Odontograph. 


25  to  27  2%'.'  P. 


1-01 


2-94 


28  to  31   294" P. 


1-05 


2-55 


32  to  35  2h"P 


1-07 


2-31 


36  to  41  2H'.'P. 


[1-10 


FULL  SIZE   GEAR   TEETH. 
From  Prof,  S.  W,  Robinson's   Templet  Odontograph, 


42  to  47  2H'.'P 


1-92 


48  to  62  2%'.'P. 


1-76 


FULL  SIZE  GEAR   TEETH. 

From  Prof.  S.  *W.  Robinson  s   Templet  Odontograph, 


±4  3."  P. 


15  S'.'P. 


143 


16  to  1 


0-01 


R. 


18  to  1 


7-44 


•02 


FULL   SIZE   GEAR   TEETH. 

From   Prof.  S.   W.  Robinson's    Templet  Odontograph. 


FULL   SIZE   GEAR   TEETH. 

from  Prof.  S,  W.  Robinson 's   Templet  Odontograph. 


FULL  SIZE   GEAR   TEETH. 
From  Prof.  S.   W.  Robinson's   Templet  Odontograph. 


63  to  130  3'.' P. 


131  to  8OO   S'.'P 


1-41 


1-52. 


FULL   SIZE   GEAR   TEETH. 
From  Prof.  S.  W.  Robinson's   Templet  Odontograph. 


m 


Pit  fit 


2O"  D  lam. 


YB   I  I  1 72 


464543 
T5 


UNIVERSITY  OF-CALJFORNIA  LIBRARY 


